April 1930's

Merry Christmas Trinket Boxes

2011-11-09T17:05:00.005-07:00

Several years ago I was meandering through an antique store near Seattle, Washington. It was at Two French Hens in Burien if you desire to have a peek there sometime - they have the sweetest offerings!

Anyway, I stumbled upon an old stationery box with various old cards -- in it were these little cards so-to-speak that were delicately preserved with their original ribbons and even their envelopes so as to be mailed! The cards were from the early 1900's with crow-quill & ink penned names ~ there was one for Earle, Glen, Ronald, and H.E. Bailey. The rest of the cards were all blank. Of course the cards were quite fragile, but I determined then and there to replicate and offer them to others. They were just too sweet not to share!

With Christmas around the corner, I wanted everyone to have these to use in plenty of time for Holiday gatherings and gift-giving exchanges.

I am calling them the Merry Christmas Trinket Boxes.... enjoy!

Click on the photo above for the free PDF download and step-by-step photograph tutorial with assembly instructions.

Clothes Pin Dolls

2011-08-02T15:30:00.003-06:00

These are so easy a small child can make them!

Step 1: Fold a little edge of a square or rectangular fabric scrap and pin it with the clothes pin.

Step 2: Flip the clothes pin down.

Step 3: Wrap the fabric corners to the center around the clothes pin.

Step 4: Tie a piece of bias tape, yarn, or string around the clothes pin for the neck scarf.

Optional Step 5: (Little Girls like this one, particularly) Draw a face.

You can pink the fabric edges, too, if you want a frilly hem.

Have fun!

Singer Tucker Attachment Video Tutorial

2011-02-09T14:49:00.006-07:00

How to sew pintucks using an old-fashioned Singer Tucker Attachment.
Demonstration was with a Singer Featherweight 222 Sewing Machine.

Bias Cutting Tutorial

2011-02-04T16:54:00.009-07:00

This bias cutting technique has actually been around for quite some time. It wouldn't surprise me if it was something Mary Brooks Picken discovered all on her own when she assisted with the writing and publication of the old Singer Sewing Book. It's a simple trick, really, and makes use of small pieces for fabric conservation!

Sometimes I have a little piece of fabric leftover from a project, but not enough to cut long strips for bias trim - and it would be tedious to sew several small strips together. Other times I want to conserve every last fiber of yardage because of the fabric rarity or cost. I have a feeling I will be using this technique often for my Liberty remnant prints!

To begin, cut a parallelogram shape from fabric with the long sides being cut on the bias and the short sides being cut on the straight of grain.

Long sides are cut on the bias and short sides are cut on the straight of grain
(as indicated by the grid on the cutting mat)

Accuracy is very, very important, and can make a difference in the end result, so be sure to cut the short (straight-grain) side and bias side very straight like you see in the photograph below.

Turn your fabric piece so that the bias edge is aligned to a straight line on the cutting mat grid and the straight-grain edge is aligned to the bias cutting line on the grid. This will allow you to draw parallel lines spaced evenly (following the straight lines on the grid) for perfectly straight bias strips.

Now you can draw your bias lines using the measurements on your cutting mat. Whether you want bias that measures 1 inch, 1.5 inches, etc.... with a fabric marking pen, you can use the straight lines on the grid as your guide to mark parallel bias-cutting lines.

On the back side of the fabric piece measure and mark your bias strips to your desired width. It does not matter what width you prefer, this technique is applicable for any bias width desired.

Taking the Singer Sewing Book technique one step further, on one *straight-edge side*, make a mark 1/2-inch on either the right or the left side (it doesn't matter which) of each bias line.

In the photo above, I made my marks 1/2-inch to the left of each bias line.

After you make your 1/2-inch marks, transfer them to the right side of the fabric so you can easily see them when you align right sides together in the next step.

Begin matching right sides together with the two straight-edge sides. Make sure that you have one full bias width (as indicated by the pen in the photo above) that will NOT get stitched... simultaneously aligning the bias lines on one straight edge side to the 1/2-inch marks you made on the other straight edge side as you will see in the next photo.

Precisely pinning the two straight-edge sides together, align the bias lines of one edge to the 1/2-inch marks you made on the other edge. This will ensure that after stitching the two sides together, your bias lines will align straight and and continuous despite the seam allowances.

When you bring the straight-edge sides together it will seem a bit awkward, but this is normal.

NOTE: You will need to have one full width of bias (which will NOT get stitched) on at least one end when you pin it together as indicated by the previous two pictures in the tutorial.

Stitch the two straight ends together using a 1/4-inch seam allowance. Again, being precise is very important.

Notice the red stitching in the photo above? I stopped just short of the last full width of bias. There is now a full bias width that was not stitched as indicated in previous photo instructions. (the extra little width on the right side is just excess and will get cut off)

When you align the bias lines on one side to the 1/2-inch marks you made on the other side, after stitching the right sides together, your bias lines should run in a continuous line - even through the seam you just stitched.

You can see below how the bias lines are now perfectly aligned running continuous through the seam - essentially forming a fabric tube.

Using a pressing ham or rolled towel, insert it into your fabric tube and press the seam allowances open.

Beginning with the side edge that has your un-stitched full-bias width, begin cutting following the bias line that you marked.

You should just keep cutting with the lines essentially forming one continuous path. Trim any excess.

My 8 x 18 inch fabric piece yielded 82 inches of one-inch bias!

Flat Felled Seams - Tutorial

2011-01-28T10:49:00.004-07:00

This tutorial was featured on the Oliver + S blog.

A flat-felled seam is accomplished by sewing two lines of stitching at the seam while simultaneously enclosing the raw edges of the fabric. This seam finish not only prevents unraveling or fraying, but makes the seam very strong. It also gives the finished garment a clean finish on this inside. A flat-felled seam is commonly found on denim jeans and men's dress shirts as well as on reversible garments. I've even seen this feature instructed in vintage patterns for boy's and men's pajamas. It adds one more touch of professionalism to a hand-made garment.

To begin, stitch the seam with the fabric pieces wrong sides together. You can determine how wide you want your flat-felled seam to be by how much you trim your seam allowances. Begin by trimming only one side to the desired width of the finished seam allowances.

Trim the second seam allowances to twice the width of the first. For this example, I stitched a ½” seam and then trimmed the first seam allowance to ¼”, which means I didn’t need to trim the second seam allowance since it was already twice the width of the first.

Fold and press the wider seam allowance around the shorter seam allowance so the raw edge of the second (wider) seam allowance meets the first seam line. Then stitch along the folded edge of the second seam allowance. This encloses the raw edge, and with the second row of stitching creates a very strong seam.

To make my stitching rows evenly spaced, I used a 1/4-inch foot. The black guide on the right followed the first stitching line while the inside edge of the little toe was a guide for sewing the second stitching line.

~ ~ ~ ~ ~

Another useful tool is the Felling Foot, because it folds, presses, and stitches the first row of stitches all in one pass. Using this attachment, while still accommodating a 1/2-inch seam allowance, I trimmed 1/8 inch from each of the seam allowances prior to stitching so that the finished seam would finish with the correct seam allowance according to the pattern.

To begin, space the top seam allowance 1/8 inch to the left of the bottom seam allowance as shown in the photo above. Finger press and fold the start of the seam so that you can stitch 2-3 stitches to secure the folds in place. With the needle still in position, maneuver the bottom seam allowance into the Felling foot so that it curves up and around - sewing slowly, carefully begin stitching to allow the bottom seam allowance to fold over the top seam allowance so that the folds can be stitched in place for the first stitching line.

Simultaneously, the attachment is folding, pressing and allowing the needle to stitch the initial seam enclosed. Press the enclosed seam so that you can make the final pass with the attachment.

Using the Feller attachment for the second pass, slip the stitched fold up into the attachment with the right toe set up against the outside of the first row of stitches. Allow the fold to carefully pass under the foot while stitching it in place for the finished Flat-Felled Seam. The 4mm Feller Attachment makes a dainty, 1/8" narrow flat-felled seam.

Seam Finishes - Bound Seams

2010-09-20T11:10:00.006-06:00

Press the bias raw edge towards the seam allowance raw edge, leaving a little gap between them.

Bias Binding is a strip of material cut on the bias for extra stretch and often doubled. It is used for binding hems, interfacings or for edge decoration and is very useful for many sewing projects. It adds a touch of embellishment to set your garment or project apart for a more professional appearance. You can purchase ready-made bias or make your own. Bias-making tools are helpful and efficient, but a good steam iron is the necessary tool! I personally prefer to make my own because I can customize it to my project, but some of the old-fashioned vintage unused packages can be quite fun to put to use, too! The focus of this tutorial will be set around making your own bias.

For a 1/4"-wide finished binding, you'll need to start with 1"-wide bias strips, for a 3/8”-wide finished binding, you’ll need to start with 1½”-wide bias strips, and for 1/2"-wide finished binding, you'll need 2"-wide bias strips). The following illustrations will show how you can enclose the raw edges of your seam allowances using your regular presser foot on your sewing machine or by way of an old Singer Attachment.

I prefer a 1/4" wide finished binding, so my illustrations will reflect using 1"-wide bias strips. Stitch your seam as directed in your pattern instructions - with Oliver + S, this is a 1/2 inch seam allowance. To follow with binding, trim the seam allowances to about 3/16 inch. Press a crisp fold in the bias towards the seam allowance raw edge as shown in the illustration above - but leave a narrow gap between the raw edge of the bias and the raw edges of the seam allowance. Leaving the little gap will make for a smooth, crisp edge when it is folded over and stitched in the final pass.

Stitching the bias-binding in place

Fold and press the folded bias over the raw edge and stitch in place. Trimming your seam allowances will help to ensure that your previous stitching lines are covered within the bias as it is folded over and stitched.

Finished bound seam

This method is particularly useful for finishing seams on heavier fabrics. (Be sure to choose a very lightweight cotton such as lawn or batiste so as not to add any unnecessary bulk at the seam allowances.) Using a contrasting fabric adds that last finished touch to the inside of a garment - such as this Sunday Brunch Jacket I made for my daughter.

The following illustrations are shown using an old Singer Binder Attachment and 15/16" wide bias strips. (A little bit of trivia: Remember, the tutorial illustrating the Singer Hand-Crank Pinker? Using a straight-edge disk, the cutting guide was specifically designed for 15/16" maximum width cut for this very purpose!) A Singer Binder was included as a standard basic attachment with most vintage Singer Sewing Machines but are still useful for today. If you want to avoid the extra steps of pressing - this attachment will aid in stitching, folding, and binding the raw edges all at one time. Granted, it does take a bit of practice to get the feel and direction to hold the bias strips correctly, but there is something fun about using tools from days gone by.

Binding a seam using a Singer Binder Attachment

The engineering of this attachment basically allows only for traditional cotton quilting wovens to be used but is particularly helpful for quickly binding seams or binding the edge of a single layer piece of fabric (I.e. Aprons, ties or sashes, bibs, collars, etc.) all in one pass. You will find more ideas and samples at April1930s.Com.

Bias is fed, folded, stitched and bound in place

The Bias Strip is guided through the attachment while simultaneously being folded, stitched in place and enclosing the raw edge of the seam allowances. You can use this attachment for a variety of bias-width cuts, but the maximum width allowed through the binder is 15/16".

Inside seam showing a bound seam allowance

When you are finished, be sure to press the seam allowance in the proper direction as directed in your pattern instructions.

Press the seam allowance in the proper direction for a professional finish

Want Smooth Corners?

2010-06-08T19:13:00.006-06:00

Pockets can be tricky sometimes. You can take the time to cut perfectly but when trying to fold the excess seam allowance for rounded or curved corners, an angular edge can sometimes result no matter how detailed or careful you press.

A long time ago I learned a trick for stitching rounded pockets which helps to eliminate the angular-ness of the edges. Recreating the Pocket step from the recent Ice Cream Dress pattern (by Oliver + S) that I made for SweetPea, I have made a simple tutorial to share the trick with you, too!

Starting with Step 2 of the Ice Cream Dress pattern, you will baste as instructed, creating your fold line for the pocket edge.

The extra step is to baste again inside the seam allowance about 1/8 inch from the original basting line. Begin just outside the curve on the straight edge. In this case I basted a second line for each curvature, starting just before and stopping just beyond the curved corners. Next, trim your seam allowance to within 1/8 inch from your newly basted lines (1/4 inch from your basted fold line). If you are making a rounded pocket, you will start your extra basting step at the beginning of the curve continuing around.

Using your long threads from the second basting lines around the curvatures, gently and very slightly pull a soft gather. Doing this will automatically bring the pocket corner into a smooth edge.

The basting stitches you see along the outside edge in the photo above were created in Step 2 as a folding guide for the pocket edge - use this basting line to fold the seam allowance in as you press. Once you stitch the pocket in place, you can easily remove the basting stitches.

Pin the pocket in place and slowly, carefully edgestitch it to the garment as instructed. I like to sew slowly around the corners, one stitch at a time, lifting the presser foot and turning the corners in between each stitch. This helps to keep the top-stitching line equidistant to the pocket edge.

This same trick can apply to quilt applique, too!

Cold, Ice Cream Dress & Feedsack Fabric

2010-05-29T23:36:00.005-06:00

Last day of school was Friday. Cowboy finished 4th grade and SweetPea finished Kindergarten (flashback here and here).

The weather was probably the most uncooperative I have ever experienced in my entire life of last day of school days - even my own childhood memories of the last day of school were always warm, sunny and comfortable (if not down right hot!). It just so happened to be Field Day on Friday, too (of course), and I just so happened to volunteer for such Field Day. It was cold, windy and somewhat wet.

I am allergic to cold. I get anxiety just thinking about how I will feel in any situation cold-weather related. Will I be warm enough? How long will it last? Will I be able to escape it? Will I survive? A little obsessive about cold, perhaps? Probably.

This is sewing-related, so bear with me. Being that it was the last day of school, SweetPea wanted to wear the new little Oliver + S Ice Cream Dress I had made for her. So, we opted for cold-weather-induced, winter ribbed tights as an additional accessory.

Add a sweater and nothing can remove the sunshine happiness of an old gunny sack race!

I will say that the dress turned out ever-so-sweet with the 1930's feedsack reproduction fabric I used. In fact, I was rather impressed with the Lecien fabric - once washed, it looked and felt like bona fide vintage feedsack! It was super soft and flowy - the perfect combination for this little dress which reminded me so much of the vintage feedsack dresses in style.

Stay-tuned for Cowboy's Sketchbook Shirt and Shorts! They're next under my needle...

1/4" Narrow Hemmer & Vintage-Styled Apron

2010-04-23T12:17:00.007-06:00

Amazing. Simple. And, amazing - or did I already say that? Let me say it again - A-M-A-Z-I-N-G! Constructing a little apron for my daughter's teacher I decided to see if I could try out the 6mm or 1/4" Narrow Hemmer foot to quickly hem the ruffle pieces prior to gathering the opposite edge.

I did a quick finger press twice over for the first inch or sew at the beginning of the seam - stitched normally for about 4 or 5 stitches then I lifted the presser foot, backed up the fabric and inserted the fold into the curve of the foot. Proceeding forward, I held the fabric like you see below and voila. This was even on a bias curve!

Look at that! A perfectly narrow 1/4" hem! I hemmed the ties, too, because it was so easy.

This fabric print is one of my all-time favorite Japanese imports. I purchased it about a year ago from a sweet gal on etsy and I've been saving it for the perfect project. SweetPea's teacher is currently focusing on Nursery Rhymes and Fairy Tales for the class curriculum so she asked if I would make her a couple of aprons to coordinate. Little Bo Peep fits in perfectly with that theme, don't you think? The turquoise polka dot was a vintage dress or skirt of some kind that had been painstakingly dissembled for repurposing later. That never happened until I found it amidst some vintage fabric finds - probably at an Estate Sale or something. All bias is from my own vintage personal stash, too. I get so much satisfaction of not only having just what I need on hand but when it is a perfect match, too - so fun!

OH, I nearly forgot -the pattern was also from my stashes of past vintage finds... a Simplicity 1358 Vintage Apron pattern sized Medium.

Oliver + S Bubble Dress Placket Tutorial

2010-04-11T16:23:00.010-06:00

When my daughter recently asked if I would make her another "Bubble Dress" (you know your sewing has influence when your children begin asking for garments by their pattern name) I knew the timing was perfect to create a photo tutorial of the placket process. This photo tutorial will show you how to sew a perfect Oliver + S Bubble Dress placket without any open gaping.

Also, if you are careful with the cutting, marking and final hand-sewing, you can create two dresses in one! Follow along and I'll show you how.....

~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

The pattern cut-out and construction are pretty straight-forward. However, one thing I did differently during the cut-out/marking process was to baste the pattern directly onto the fabric itself, like so:

Once you remove the basting stitches, you will have a perfectly marked top-stitching line! (I also recommend the use of a walking foot for the actual top-stitching in step #12, page 2, of the pattern - you will have much less puckering and pulling of the fabric layers.)

I also prefer to grade the neckline seam. This helps the neckline to lay flat and smooth on the outside of the garment.

The placket construction really begins at Step #7 (page 2) of the pattern. Take note of the stitching in the illustration. You are instructed to stitch only to the dots (that you transferred to your fabric from the pattern) of the lower back bodice edge. This is very, very important! If you stitch any farther than the dots, then the placket construction will not take correct shape.

Bodice Placket turned right side out.

Beginning with step #2 (page 3) "Attaching the Bodice to the Skirt" you will need to make sure that your back bodice is turned inside out - especially the lower edge (the part that you stitched only to the dots). If you do this, you will have clarity for matching up your garment pieces to coincide with the pattern illustration. The left side of the illustration is what you want to pay most attention to.

Skirt is shown on the left side and the Bodice is shown on the right side - however, the bodice is turned inside out at the back lower edge:

Same position, different angle:

Again, same position, different angle - you can see clearly in the photo below where the stitching line is of the lower back bodice that you finished in Step #7.

Below, you can begin to see what the final placket will look like once it is stitched and turned right side out...

Adjusting your gathers, continue pinning all the way around to the other placket side being careful to match your side seams along the way.

When you finish pinning the skirt to the bodice, this is what your placket will look like (on the lining side). Now you can stitch the skirt to the bodice.

Being very careful, handstitch the bodice lining in place being sure to place the lower bodice-lining edge over the stitching line you just finished when sewing the skirt to the bodice. Now turn the garment right side out and follow the final steps of the pattern to finish sewing the dress.

The photo below shows how the placket should overlap on the outside of the dress.

Finished garment with buttons in place.

Notice her little fishy face?

Want this to become a reversible dress?

Careful handstitching will allow for that feature easily!

You will notice that the placket must overlap the opposite direction on the lining side for the reversible-dress option. The buttons are on the same panel, but each one is sewn opposite front-to-back of each other.

For a fun little laugh, you might enjoy her "Bubble Dress, Golden Fish" song here.

Infant Baby Gown

2010-03-06T16:40:00.004-07:00

This was a shower gift I made for a friend from church. She's due in May and having a little girl.
The pattern is a Kwik Sew 3090. If using binding I recommend trimming the seam allowances by 1/4 to 3/8 of inch first.

I'm in love with my Babylock Coverstitcher. in. love. I am no binding expert, believe me. I'm not even all that experienced with knits, but just look at what this machine can do!!!!! It makes me feel like a professional! Thank you little Babylocky - I love you for it and must give credit where credit is due.

Shirring was accomplished by putting elastic thread in my bobbin and using the shirring foot made the process even easier!

More Valentine Goodness

2010-02-11T08:57:00.003-07:00

Finished SweetPea's Valentine Holder and her teacher's Valentine Holder (notice the 'To My Teacher' Valentine on the front). Peltex has been resurrected to become part of the land of the living since learning my new trick. Seriously - check out the seams and how non-bulky they are. I could have hugged Liesl at 2:00am this morning from my Peltex delight.

Not one speck of bulk - NOT ONE!

Anyway, kids are off today and they are so happy. SweetPea specifically picked out the "Big Red Rose" fabric. While I was actually hoping she'd lean more towards the vintage Valentine print for hers, I can't blame her for choosing one of my all time favorite fabrics (all on her own, mind you).

Cowboy picked out Lego fabric for his but it could not be heart-shaped. It had to be plain and rectangular, with "no hearty fabric Valentine's inside either". I will photograph his when he brings it back from school as he took it the other day to show his teacher.

I even managed to finish the little fabric Valentine's just as a fun decorative touch.

Valentine's You've Got Mail*

2010-02-07T18:19:00.004-07:00

*** UPDATE *** All your Peltex troubles are over. Hope in perfect seams using Peltex is now available after learning this trick (blogged in 2007 under the term Timtex, which the market has now been replaced with Peltex, by the way. So, if you're doing a Google search for over-an-hour using the term "Peltex Tips", it will get better results by plugging in Timtex... or better yet, don't second-guess yourself in e-mailing your personal brilliant insider to ask her directly before doing that Google search. She saves my sewing every.single.time.)

I found this pattern on the Moda Bake Shop blog. I have plans to make one for SweetPea, her teacher and Cowboy's teacher, but after the war with Peltex that plan may have to be re-thought. Cowboy is now requesting one that is Lego-shaped. So, we shall certainly see by the end of the week how that all turns out, won't we.

Fabric is some that I had leftover from a few years ago. SweetPea is already getting her little Valentines ready.

Pattern instructions were a bit unclear regarding cut out, but overall it was rather easy to construct (aside from wrestling with peltex - I'm going to make another one and see if I can't insert the peltex after the fact so my seams aren't so lumpy).

I'm hoping to add the little sewn "envelopes" that the pattern includes.

Sewing-n-Showing GIVE-AWAY!

2010-01-26T13:10:00.012-07:00

Over on the Facebook Page for April 1930's fans, we are having a contest and it is all about Sewing-n-Showing!

Whoever completes/finishes the most sewn projects (you can use any type of sewing machine you feel comfortable using - this is not limited to Featherweight sewing) between now and Valentine's Day and posts photographs of completed items in the Sewing-n-Showing Folder on the April 1930's Facebook page will win a $50.00 gift certificate towards April 1930's merchandise and will receive 10 yards of vintage pink and red cotton rick rack.

Spread the Word!

Have fun!

We anxiously await to see what you make!

**UPDATE! Disclaimer ~ It didn't dawn on me until just now that qualified projects = sewn from pattern or something that involves effort. While serged burp rags or napkins would certainly take a lot of time, they do not carry the same weight for this contest as say a quilt, a quilted table runner or tea cozy, garment, handbag, or other crafty sewn item. That said, if you have already started a qualified project prior to today but finish it within the allotted time period, the project *does* qualify for the contest!

Sweet

2010-01-23T11:06:00.010-07:00

I would have to say that this outfit is probably one of my favorites. It's more casual in the detailing, but the hand on these two fabrics is so soft and the blouse is just sweet, wouldn't you say? The print is small and feminine and just plain sweet.

Patterns used (I bet you can't guess...): Oliver + S Jump Rope Dress & Sandbox Pants. Dress, you say? Why yes, dress.... only I got a bit adventuresome and made a blouse instead.

Fabrics used: Baby Nay floral stretch corduroy for the blouse and designer sueded twill for the pants.

Buttons are vertical on the blouse except for the top one which is horizontal, allowing more ease around the collar when buttoned all the way up. (You didn't really think I'd sew the placket crooked, did you? {wink wink! } )

Going out of my comfort zone for pattern altering, I didn't want to do any more drafting or melding than absolutely necessary - thus, the ruffly cuff. I initially tried to use elastic thread in the bobbin case but the fabric is exceptionally stretchy so I opted for the traditional elastic casing.

Notice the hem on the blouse? Coverstitcher. Again, due to stretchyness of this particular corduroy fabric, using the coverstitcher made for a flawless hem. Pockets are fully lined with the corduroy to (somewhat?) coordinate wtih the blouse. Using my Singer Featherweight, I stitched extra, extra slowly around the pockets so that the lining wouldn't show on the outside. I more or less appeased uniform wear so the pants could be worn for school as well as for play.

What can I say about the pants - perfect every time I make them. SweetPea is generally taller and typically wears a size 6-slim in ready-to-wear, but this pattern was made in the size 5 all the way around - I did not have to do any altering for fit whatsoever. (happy! happy!)

Dress Rehearsal for Christmas Outfits

2009-12-02T16:44:00.004-07:00

First, I'll start out with the necktie. I am beside myself with the fact that I made a necktie. A NECK. TIE. Seriously - who would have thought?!... that a necktie could even be made! I decided to use the red fine-wale corduroy fabric that I used to make SweetPea's Christmas dress so the children would coordinate.

It's almost entirely handsewn, but I promise it's not as intimidating as it sounds. Really - I finished nearly all of it within an evening from cut to finish.

My husband, who is the master at necktie tying (he prefers the Double Windsor actually), gave me the best compliment by asking if I would be making him ties from now on. Hmmmmm, will have to think on that one - especially because I only have a pattern for a Little Boy's Necktie, and besides church, where would he wear it? To the office?! Hubby also said that he does not recommend corduroy fabric in the future because the tie doesn't want to slide easily up and down for adjustment around the neck. As long as it looks good in the end, that's all that matters, right!?

Cowboy was quite proud and asked if I would make him more neckties....
and "could he pick out the fabric?" ("Sure. Just sit still and quit acting goofy, please, so I can take your picture!")

Obviously this is the dress rehearsal for the Christmas outfits - look how much Cowboy has grown out of that shirt!

SweetPea's Christmas Dress is from a vintage Hollywood Pattern and has a Coat Dress style. While I don't think there will be a "next time" for constructing with this particular pattern, I would *highly* recommend a muslin first should the opportunity present itself again. Thankfully, I was very careful with the modifications so the corduroy wale was not affected.

Pattern calls for *optional* shoulder pads which I was not planning on sewing. However, after the first fitting, the dress just did not hang quite right. When I added the shoulder pads the drape was much, much nicer.

Buttons are vintage and the white ones reminded me of little snowflakes.
The white ric rac trim was an afterthought, but proved right away to be just the right touch. The little green button was a loner I had in my stash - a most perfect shade of jade-ite green. Now if I could only convince my son that he needs a vintage jade-ite green button tie tack!

We still need to get Cowboy a white dress shirt and SweetPea some black patent dress shoes, and their hair combed all handsome & pretty, but I couldn't wait to post these pictures because it helps keep me motivated to cross stuff off my Christmas Wish List.

Singer Featherweight 221 - Golden Gate San Francisco

2009-12-02T15:31:00.005-07:00

This particular Featherweight is definitely in the category of Rare. Economists know there is a distinctive difference between Rare and Scarce. One is limited quantities and the other is limited available resources with which to obtain ... so in all honesty, this machine falls into both categories!

At the 1940 World's Fair held in San Francisco very few Singer Featherweight machines were promotionally badged with the Golden Gate emblem. As you'll see at first glance it looks very, very similar to the Centennial badge frequently seen but has the engraved title "Golden Gate Exposition San Francisco 1940".

A customer sent this machine to me on consignment a couple of weeks ago. I just finished taking photographs for an interested client but thought I would share the love by showing this unique Featherweight 221 for everyone to see.

Thanksgiving Greetings

2009-11-24T11:07:00.002-07:00

May you have a great plenty on this Thanksgiving Day
and be very thankful in all your work and play... and sewing!

Can You Spell L-O-V-E?

2009-11-20T12:15:00.007-07:00

Our daughter is learning to read. Sounding out the letters to form little words - it's nothing short of amazing.

I think this recent craft is quite poignant - made by an online Stitchery Friend at Everyday Chaos (yes, Bridget, even though I mostly lurk, I still consider you a Stitchery Friend) which she posted on her blog. Her title alone today made me think we would certainly be friends IRL (in real life) because my IRL friends use the term 'Calgon moments' all the time (not that we get them all the time, mind you).

If you've not read Everyday Chaos before - Bridget is certainly Blessed in craftiness, mommyness and wittyness, and not necessarily in that order. I crack-up everytime I read her posts - in a crafty-mommy-witty sort-of-way.

So, amidst all the Holiday happenings and Christmas gatherings, remember that children, even those learning to read... really do spell LOVE this way:

T - I - M - E

Lily Kitty or Lily Cat

2009-11-13T11:09:00.002-07:00

This is our Lily Cat or Lily Kitty - whatever suits my fancy as I lovingly talk to her throughout the day. She is the sweetest little kitty ever. No, really - EVER. She loves to lay on her back legs completely outstretched so we will rub her belly. When she desires to be petted she'll come up to our leg, sit and then gently tap us with her paw.

She was my mama's kitty until we inherited her about a month ago. (My brother moved home, horrible allergies, yada, yada, yada, we now have Lily.)

Her favorite place to sit and perch is here, atop the old Singer Treadle Sewing Machine, and look out the window.

Lily is a purebred Persian and was found in a ditch when she was just a kitten. All mangled and matted - one could hardly tell that she would end up being so lovely, nor so sweet! Who knows how a purebred Persian ended up in a ditch, but we are very grateful she was found. We love our Lily.

...and the Survey Says....!!

2009-11-12T19:58:00.004-07:00

Hi! So, I'm looking at expanding the April 1930's website just a teensy bit, but wondered if you wouldn't mind giving me an idea (or solidifying my own thoughts) as to what you would like to see or would be interested in purchasing in the future.

It's a quick survey, I promise!

CLICK HERE FOR SURVEY

Little Girls (or Boys!) Sewing Machine

2009-11-09T10:46:00.004-07:00

I am often asked, 'What child's sewing machine would you recommend for my 4-5 year-old?'...

Well, each child is different, of course, and while some may actually be ready to go straight to a regular sewing machine (which I would without-a-doubt recommend the Singer Featherweight 221 for any child's first regular sewing machine!) some little ones need a baby step to get them used to the concept and mechanics of actually sewing. In that case, then I highly recommend the Singer Sewhandy model 20. It is a small table-mount handcrank sewing machine that creates a lovely chainstitch. You will only need to top thread it as there is no bobbin.

If you want to take that suggestion one step further, then the Singer Sewhandy 20-2 is the creme de la creme. It is the electric version to the handcrank and can be operated either way... by hand, or by the touch of a button electrically. And will, no doubt, last a couple more years as your child begins to find the handcrank a bit elementary.

I was asked this morning if the motor was 'original' and indeed it is. Singer really did make a child's little electric machine! Singer advertising was second-to-none when marketing their ingenuity! (Singer had an advertisting budget surpassed a $1,000,000 in the 1920's!) They designed a perfect way to combine the original handcrank design with an electric allowing the child to grow into more experienced (and motorized) sewing.

On that note, did you know the Singer SewHandy No. 20 Sewing Machine was just another way to market 'SINGER' for a life of sewing? Yes... 'tis true. Whenever a little girl would come into a Singer Shop either alone or accompanied by her mother, the Saleswoman would always draw the attention of the girl to the No. 20 Machine, showing samples of the work that could be done on the little machine and ease and simpleness of operation.... and the interest of young people developed in every way as they were all potential users of Singer Machines. Mothers appreciate any attention given their children. (taken directly from an old Singer Employee handbook!)

Where can you find these lovely old little machines? Well, eBay is a great venue but you have to be very careful because as with most vintage and antique things, if not properly cared for they can be irreparable. Make sure you purchase one from a reputable seller who has taken the time to clean, service, test, sample and *guarantee* that the machine will sew properly.

We usually have one about once each year and are currently offering this year's pick on eBay right now. You will also see that we have added a video as proof of a properly working little machine for your child.

Zip It Up & Pipe Down

2009-10-15T12:23:00.015-06:00

Hidden or Invisible zippers sound so intimidating, don't they? Well, the truth of the matter is they're actually easier to put in than an ordinary zipper, especially with the right tool.

April 1930's is now carrying the Low Shank Hidden Invisible Zipper Foot Attachment. I much prefer this attachment over the misshapen plastic doo-hickeys found in a little package at the sewing stores, which look more like multi-colored mind puzzlers than they do a Sewing Machine Attachment. This low shank invisible zipper foot has a clear or somewhat opaque foot mounted to a metal attachment bracket which has a screw on the backside for adjusting side-to-side depending on where you want your needle.

I prefer to stitch a basting line on the fabric along the seam allowances so that I can align the zipper tape correctly. Press the zipper out flat... then with right sides together, allow the teeth to set in the groove opposite the seam allowance edge. Make sure your needle is catching the zipper tape correctly and stitch.

(Most hidden zippers are accompanied with instructions for inserting it into the seam - now you will have an easy foot to use for application!)

When you need to stitch the bottom section of the zipper tape in place, you can use the outer edge of the attachment.

~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

For traditional zippers, you can use the old-fashioned Singer Zipper Foot Attachment as shown below. I've labeled this one the wide Zipper Foot Attachment simply because it has a wider foot. I've found that it makes little difference for application, wide or narrow.

The attachment can do more than just zippers - make your own piping, too!

Cut your own bias from a fabric of choice, add an appropriate cording width to the center wrong side, fold it over and begin stitching!

Then you'll use your zipper foot again to apply the piping to your fabric. Place the piping on the seam allowance on the right side and baste in place. Mine happens to be 1/2 inch so the edge of my piping actually coincided with the edge of the fabric, but if your seam allowance was 5/8, your piping might be inset a little bit. (It won't show because it will get stitched within the seam allowance.)

Then stitch the two pieces of fabric together on your seam allowance and the piping will show through to the right side beautifully.

You can see below the zipper and piping sample.

Jump Rope Dress

2009-10-05T21:22:00.005-06:00

Another school uniform made from the Oliver + S Jump Rope Dress pattern. I used a heavier-weighted twill - the same as I used for the Tea Party Dress uniform jumper.

Placket instruction was ingenious - step-by-step teaching all along the way. It's Home-Ec class in a pattern envelope! The only thing I did a bit different was to edgestitch the collar where the pattern actually instructed to 'set it aside for the moment' - only because my fabric was heavier and I knew I couldn't edgestitch the neckline through to the opposite side as straight as I would have liked. (That will make sense when you read the pattern, so if you have a regular weight cotton - just ignore what I said.) Tip #1: Take extra time and preparedness in cutting and marking as precisely as possible - your placket will thank you!

I'm not too sure I'm happy with my blind-hemming technique on the cuff. I think next time I would just tack it at the inside seam and let the remainder hang free... if it bugs me enough, I may take it out and redo it. There are so many ways to blind hem or tack, and some look better than others for various effects... it's been fun to try different techniques though.

Tip #2: When pressing the loops up as instructed, make sure they are parallel to the side seam to keep them nice and straight. I did and I was really glad. Also - either decrease the length of each loop to 2 1/2 inches or tack them lower than what you see in the photograph above. Otherwise the belt tends to ride higher on the waist. Although you probably wouldn't have noticed had I not mentioned it, no?

I was too lazy and tired to edit out the logo name for internet purposes - pretend you can't read it, okay? Okay.

It has now become customary to make a fun lining for my daughter's uniforms. This time I found some fabric that was a mill end from what must have been leftover fabric from the Park City Luxe group by Gymboree. I couldn't pass it up because SweetPea had a blouse from that group with this identical fabric when she was 2-years-old!

Instead of leaving the exposed serged seam, I decided to try some seam binding. But what do you use when you don't have matching seam binding, despite the seamingly (pardon the pun) endless vintage notion supply? Well, matching vintage satin ribbon that you just happen to have on hand.

How does one attach seam binding? By hand. Yeah - all the way around.... on both sides of the ribbon. The end result was well worth it. The ultimate compliment came tonight when my mom said, 'what attachment did you use to do that seam binding?' - that'd be 'the hand that's attached at the end of my arm'. hehe!

I am very, very pleased with this pattern. The tailored fit is stunning!

Heather Ross Box - PRICELESS

2009-10-01T20:16:00.012-06:00

I honestly don't know how I managed in time to get in on the Heather Ross Misc. Fabric Sale from her personal stash. What she thought would take over a week, took like two hours and her personal stash offerings were all claimed and gone. In fact, it's so gone that the offering isn't even on her blog any more for me to reference. (Which had such a cute HR illustration, too!)

Anyway, the deal was that you had to write something about yourself, make a request list as to what you would like to have in your mailing and then send her the moula in $25 increments (with a set limit). Heather would then stuff your package with stuff found in her personal old Miscellaneous boxes with collections of her designs on fabric, clothing, notions, and whatever else she fancied to put in your package - which might even include a crocheted lobster.

My request was Christmas and Kitties, and Kitties and Christmas. While I would have been completely grateful for whatever she provided to me because any Heather Ross fabric sent directly from Heather Ross from her own personal collection would be amazing - I was beyond ecstatic to have opened my package yesterday to find the following (I nearly cried):

Kitties, people, one yard of Heather Ross Kitties! I want to scoop up these little kitties and love all over them! Her illustrations truly capture their sweetness, don't you think? (non cat lovers need not comment)

... and Christmas! Two fat quarter-ish size pieces of Christmas Flannel. I don't know the design name exactly, but oh how I love them. I used to go ice skating with my mom when I was a little girl and this piece brought back memories for me.

Notice the sweetly pinked edge (click picture above to see it)? Well, when I was in Vermont I took Heather a little Singer token. I wanted to give her something that might actually be beneficial to her artistry, so I brought her a Singer Pinker! And, look, she used it to trim my fabric pieces - this tiny detail tickled me pink.

Did you know Heather had stationery? I didn't. And, this is CHRISTMAS Heather Ross Stationery!!! So, if you receive a HR Christmas card from me this year, you'll know where it came from.

Every Christmas I receive the Vermont Country Store catalog. It's an old-fashioned catalog with mostly black and white newspaper print sketches and illustrations for each item for sale. Candy, nick nack toys, clothing, and good old-fashioned goodies inspire me every Christmas season with new ideas for vintage Christmas decorating. I have always admired these little old Christmas candles... the kind you decorate with but never burn. I remember my mom having a choir boy and a couple of Christmas trees. (You had to have known, Heather, how I would enjoy these Vermont Country Store reproduction candles. I will remember you every Christmas I set them on display.)

I even received a little sampling of Farmer's Market and Ice Cream Trucks. I've seen these prints online but never in person. Such cheerful prints - I can't wait to sew with them.

Last, but not least, Heather included a personal note saying that she had granted one last request I had... Heather Ross "Christmas Tree Lot" Munki Munki pyjamas in my size had been ordered and will be in the mail soon. So, no matter what the retail value, after-market value or give-my-right-arm value of the fabrics above, if this were a Mastercard commercial, that last sweet gesture is PRICELESS!

Thank you, Heather, for your generosity and personal kindness. You have done a sweet thing - I will cherish my new treasures.

The Hurry-Up Skirt

2009-09-26T13:37:00.007-06:00

Who doesn't love a classic navy skirt? This is the Oliver + S Sunday Brunch Skirt made with a navy twill. I basted some fun Japanese import novelty fabric to the front and back skirt pieces (essentially treating them as one fabric during garment construction) to add more stability to the skirt as well as adding some more fun for SweetPea.

And what little girl doesn't love one with pockets and a secret lining for fun?

This one is probably my favorite uniform garments to make - it's so simple to sew yet still maintains professional, non-homemade details in the construction.

It certainly looks tailored, don't you think? (Well, except for the flash-n-dash photography as daughter is frantically trying to stand still while Daddy is calling her to "hurry up" and get in the car for school..... I say, "shush, Daddy, we have modeling to do, after all! - and can you hurry up and get the much-needed fence up between us and the neighbors already" - hehe!)

PIPE-iddy-do-dah! PIPE-iddy-ay . . .

2009-08-28T09:33:00.016-06:00

. . . My-oh-my, what a wonderful way . . . to embellish my daughter's latest uniform jumper.

As you know, SweetPea and Cowboy are required to wear uniforms at the school they attend. So, to make the sewing and wearing a bit more fun, using the Oliver + S Tea Party Dress (jumper) pattern, I added some embellishments and a "secret" lining. (SweetPea picked out "Sleeping Beauty" as the fabric for the lining - let's just hope she doesn't decide to use it as the subject for her next show-n-tell.)

I used a designer cotton sueded twill fabric throughout. The size 5 runs quite short for SweetPea's height, so I added six inches to the overall length by splicing the pattern and adding length in the middle. I probably could have gotten away with only adding four inches, but this way she will be able to wear it for a longer time period - I hope.

Using the narrower bias cutting lines on my rotary cutting mat as a guide, I cut several long strips of bias twill (strips were long enough to do each piped section of the garment). Next, folding the bias in half and inserting a narrow cord, I stitched my own piping to match the dress fabric with the Narrow Zipper Foot Attachment. Stitching right up next to the cording was quite easy! Just be a bit more careful with your fingers so as not to get them caught under the needle.

Because the Tea Party dress calls for a 1/2 inch seam and the piping ends up being only a 1/2 inch wide, I needed to off-set it by 1/8 inch and then basting on the 3/8 inch line. THEN, I was able to stitch the two sections together with a 1/2 inch seam allowance which reveals just the right amount of piping on the finished garment.

To finish the thick twill seams and to prevent shifting of all the layers, I did have to use a walking foot attachment. I also needed to grade all five fabric layers of the seam. This took quite a bit of time, but the finished result was well worth it, and my Singer Featherweight Sewing Machine top-stitched through all layers perfectly.

Being very, very careful in the pattern cutting process and then stitching oh-so-slowly for accuracy I was able to use a novelty print for the upper bodice lining that wouldn't be seen from the outside.

SweetPea loves this feature.

I accented with a coordinating pink polka dot for the hem-facing.

Now... to make another one.

Shirring plus a few Singer Employee Secrets

2009-08-25T14:36:00.008-06:00

**Addendum** I have no idea why the font changes from little to big to little to big. I've tried fixing it, but you'll just have to chalk it up as Blogger Interference/Annoyance.

Ever wonder what you can do with this little attachment? Using this foot has made a drastic difference in the ease of shirring, so I thought I would tell you about this obscure Singer Attachment. It's called a Shirring Foot, or sometimes referred to as the gathering attachment. By loosely hand-winding your bobbin with elastic thread you can instantly create shirred fabric with which to use for dress bodices, elasticized cuffs and more.

I suggest that when you pull your bobbin elastic thread up through the stitch plate that you also allow the upper needle thread to be pulled down through the attachment. Then, as you start out your rows be sure to hold both threads taut to secure the stitching row.

This particular attachment will fit all low, vertical shank machines including the Singer 15, 66, 99, 127, 128, 185, 192, 201, 206, 221 & 222 Featherweight, 306, 319, 328, etc.. as well as all non-Singer machines with a low, vertical shank - new and old alike.

After you shirr the fabric, steam the stitched rows with the iron on heavy-steam. I just barely hold the iron over the fabric and the shirring shrinks up quickly creating elasticity. I love it!

Or forgo the elastic thread, use regular sewing thread in the bobbin and make a tactile quilt square for baby.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Here's a RARE book that I am currently offering for sale on eBay... it is only the 2nd one I've had in the last 4 years. A few old SINGER Selling Secrets you will be sure to find . . .

SINGER SALES POINTS
publication era from the 1930's (of course!)

"This book is loaned to the employee of the Singer Sewing Machine Company who has given a receipt therefor, and must be returned to the company immediately upon discontinuance. SINGER SEWING MACHINE COMPANY, INC."

Sales tips, know-hows, as well as machine and attachment reference. And, just last night I discovered that this book has an entire section devoted the scarce Singer 24 chainstitch machine as well as it's attachments - quite a rarity indeed!

Auction ends Sunday, August 30th - so don't delay, bid while you have a chance!

Uniform-ity for Back to School

2009-08-10T13:56:00.003-06:00

The public charter school that my children attend requires a basic guideline for uniform wear. Solid top with khaki or navy bottoms. So, with my daughter starting Kindergarten this year I decided to incorporate some of the sewing I do for her by making a couple of short-sleeved cotton blouses with skirts. I will make jumpers and probably some long-sleeved blouses later, but our weather stays warm for another couple of months here.

I used a vintage Du Barry pattern with a pima cotton (absolutely the BEST!) that I bought from Bessie Mary . This pattern was a size 4, which was perfect for the width around (she wears a 5/6), but I needed to add three inches to the length for an appropriate fit. I would definitely say this pattern requires some intermediate to advanced skill, not so much for the sewing but for the implication of prior knowledge/experience in the pattern instructions - quite a bit was assumed. Considering that, the blouse itself was rather quick and easy to put together.

Instead of hemming the 'Trimmings' (little Ruffles) I just folded over and starch-pressed a 2 inch strip of fabric so I could use my Ruffler Attachment - so easy and fast and I like the look better than a narrow hem anyway. I also added some thin iron-on interfacing for the button plackets.

I would have made the skirt from the vintage pattern, too, but I think the straps would not have coincided with the school's uniform policy by covering up the logo. Instead, I used the 2+2 Pleated Skirt Oliver + S pattern.

(Our local embroiderer added the school logo for me.)

Singer Featherweight - GET A TAN!

2009-08-05T10:19:00.005-06:00

If you've been intrigued by the Singer Featherweight and its lightweight portability, let me show you one of a different color. This one has not been repainted - it is original! Yes, a lovely factory-painted creamy tan . . .

Mechanics of the Tan Featherweight are identical to the Black one. White Featherweights, however, have a little bit different gearing mechanism.

Then again, if you are a traditionalist, a black one is available on the website as well.

P.S. Don't you just love the old Singer crate?
P.P.S. The Weekend Sewing book and Heather Ross fabrics are mine and I need to hurry up and decide what I'm going to make!

More Vermont...

2009-07-30T19:19:00.003-06:00

My Vermont sewing comrades have all started adding their pictures and it's only making me long to be with all of them back at the Inn again.

I know, it will only make you green as a jelly bean to show you all these pictures and show-n-tell all the beauty and fun we had, but you simply must see more of the Weekend.

My Trip to Vermont

2009-07-29T13:20:00.010-06:00

Blueberry Hill Inn

Built in 1813 and set amidst the National Forest of Vermont, this place was like living in a storybook for the weekend.

(Click image below for a full-screen view - it's worth it!)

I will forever remember the sweet gift my husband gave me by sending me away on a sewing weekend to Blueberry Hill. I truly hope to bring him back with me one day.

(click image above for full-screen view)

This was Karen's and my room - from the front of the inn, it would be the top left two windows.

Here's Karen looking out the two front windows - across the way at the barn where everyone gathered to sew in the upstairs loft.

(click image above for full-screen view)
View from the front door looking at the barn across the way.

Liesl Gibson (from Oliver + S) and Heather Ross

Evening Vermont cheeses, crackers and wine, but what I enjoyed most was the endless laughter from Heather's amazing storytelling... seriously, my cheek muscles and stomach hurt from all the laughs. God has certainly blessed her with a gift for finding joy and humor in every circumstance - and then to be able to retell it was captivatingly FUN-NEEEE! OH, and did you know she can pick up a wine glass with her toes? And, her frog prince came right up to her hand while she was sitting in the grass... right. there! From the moment we stepped off the plane in Vermont and all around the country-side, it was easy to see her artwork everywhere - even the sway of the wildflowers along the side of the road looked just like her illustrations.

Liesl is everything I thought she would be. Tender, graceful and ever-lovely with her cheerful smiles. She certainly has the heart of a teacher. I came to the weekend with the expectation of finishing a quilt-top I started for my son a couple of years ago. While I was disheartened about not having quite the right fabrics to complete it, Liesl taught me so much about color, fabric selection and together we drew a pattern so I would have a plan to complete it when I returned home. I do wish she and I would have been able to get away for a quiet walk - I felt there was so much more to talk about aside from sewing and quilting and pattern-speak... I look forward to spending more time with such a dear friend.

(click image above for full-screen view)

While sitting in the adirondack chair eating lunch near the pond, there was a little nest of baby birds being fed by their mama in the tree above. I was probably six feet away so I set my sandwich aside and zoomed in. You can see the little beak of one of them.

In a nearby town called Brandon, we went to a little antique shop that also offered homemade ice cream and retro-styled candies. It wasn't until Karen snapped this picture that we both realized I had gone to town with my old Singer measuring tape wrapped around my neck after a day's worth of sewing.

. . . more Heather Ross story-telling . . .

Heather was so generous with her lovely stashes of Kokka Far Far Away Double Gauze fabric. Any one of us could have had our pick. Karen helped give me the idea to make the slippers from Heather's Weekend Sewing book. I chose a little bit of the orange dandelions with deep aqua rick rack to trim the inside edge - I do believe it was during this process that Karen and I received a ric rac term of endearment. I have a feeling the label is going to stick.

Karen decided to make the Yard Sale skirt, also featured from Heather's book. OH-MY-WORD, it turned out perfect! We all thought Karen should have gone out into the pasture and pretended to be Julie Andrews... but a barn-loft twirl was just as darling.

Left to Right: Me, Liesl, Heather & Karen

Parting is such sweet sorrow.... now that I'm home and checked in with family, I'm ready to go back to Vermont for more sewing... and more laughs.

. . . till next time, Blueberry Hill Inn . . .

T-Minus 12 1/2 hours

2009-07-22T17:49:00.003-06:00

Vermont ~ Weekend Sewing

with Heather Ross and Liesl Gibson.

My sewing comrade and friend and I

ARE. GOING. TO. VERMONT!!!!!

I don't even know what to type I'm so excited. Karen will be at my door at 4:45am to pick me up. 4:45 AM !!!

Vermont Checklist Countdown . . .

2009-07-20T16:04:00.005-06:00

Sewing Project. ahhh, the sewing project.... (What to brinnnng!!??)
Camera with plenty of battery life.
Clothes that make me look thin.
Shoes that make my feet look like I don't go barefoot all summer.
Manicure. (this might just have to be done on my own)
Pedicure. (ditto above)
Pajama pants and top that actually match.
Blowdryer.
Sewing Project (Didn't I mention this already?)
BigSexyHair Hairspray & Mousse
(you know, because otherwise it will be flatpancakehair)
Cosmetics to cover jetlag.
Sewing Machine.
Rotary Cutter.
Scissors.
Thread.
Pattern.
Pins.
Sewing Magazines.
..... (fill-in-the-blank) .....
..... (fill-in-the-blank) .....

Sewing, Sewing & More Sewing

2009-07-09T00:39:00.005-06:00

Cowboy has taken an interest in fabric combinations. After we purchased some shorts at Target, he came home and asked if I would make him some shirts to match. He then proceeded to put colors together and label/number them according to the order of which I was to sew. How does a mom resist that!?! This pattern is from Ottobre 03/2009 - the Jungle T-Shirt. While best results would be achieved on a coverstitcher for this particular pattern design, I was still pleased with my little Featherweight 222 and serger.

Such a sweet boy - he's definitely beginning to keep track... "are you sewing my other shirt yet, Mom?"

Prior to sewing Cowboy's shirt, this one was all cut out for SweetPea ~ the Rosalind #29 Ottobre knit top. She needed a skirt to match which brought to mind this valance fabric panel my frined, Liesl, had given to me quite awhile ago. I am so pleased with how it turned out... I used her free download pattern, too - the Lazy Days Skirt. The birds and birdhouses applique' was darling enough, I decided to forgo the ribbon hem and just use the existing one. I did fully line it with pima cotton to eliminate the sheerness of white cotton.

I think my SweetPea is growing more like a weed lately - I may add another underskirt for more length later.

SweetPea has had a front wiggly tooth for several weeks now... however, today she came to me and was pretty well set that it was coming out.

She really wanted Daddy to pull it, but he would not cave - even to her puppy dog eyes of pleading... apparently, the mortician can't stomach pulling a tooth!

So, I grabbed some thick red thread off my sewing table, tied a slip-knot around the tooth and yanked.... out it came! She was ecstatic! I got all sentimental and teary-eyed remembering her first tooth coming in and how she teethed on my antique large silver locket (which still holds the teething marks).

A little while later it dawned on me that a little girl really does need a tooth fairy pillow, so I quick-like came up with this - all leftover scraps. Cotton woven with linen for the back piece, pocket and bedpost strap. I love this fabric combination so much, I think I must find a garment to make with it sometime.

Antique heirloom lace is some I had on hand.

I hand-embroidered her first name initial on the little pocket. I was nearly finished with the pillow when SweetPea spotted what I was doing and came to see - I didn't tell her what it was until I was all finished. She could hardly contain herself to know what it was for. As soon as I told her she got all verklempt and asked if she could save it for her little girl someday, too. Truly, she is a daughter of mine!

Well, I guess I'd better go see if the Tooth Fairy has arrived yet.

Strawberry Faire

2009-06-27T20:30:00.005-06:00

A strawberry leaf from her very own strawberry plant!

I was recently asked by my online sewing friend, Dawn, to sample her recent Olabelhe debut, the Kirstin Skirt.

I didn't quite know what fabric I was going to use, but another friend of mine surprised me with this attractive Kaufman strawberry print and it coordinated perfectly with the Urban Chicks Red Picnic Swell gingham I had on hand.

Unfortunately, SweetPea didn't have a top that matched (or should I say that fit properly and wasn't stained from last season) so that provided me the opportunity to try yet another pattern, which incorporated two new things that I had not yet tried.

The Kirstin Skirt pattern is a very simple tutorial with instructions and a formula for making almost any size! The femininity and little girly-frillyness is over-the-top darling! I ended up using my Ruffler Attachment to do all the plaiting. In order for the fullness to come out correct, I tested first on some scrap fabric strips to make sure that I had the right stitch length on the machine and plait depth on the ruffler to reduce the swatch by half from its original size (because that is approximately how much I needed to reduce the skirt fullness by) . When I finally had the right formulation with my sample strips, I could begin working on the skirt itself. It was amazing how much difference it made for perfect, even tucks in the gathering versus doing it by hand.

The top is an Ottobre pattern from their most recent 03/2009 issue. I had never used Fold-Over-Elastic before, nor had I done shirring with elastic in my bobbin... both techniques I will definitely be using again and again! FOE makes neck-binding so simple and clean - I strongly suggest using a walking foot. It probably wasn't a good idea to do shirring for the first time using a rib knit, but nonetheless, it still turned out satisfactory.

1930's Feedsack Fabrics With a Side of Rick Rack

2009-06-10T15:23:00.005-06:00

Slowly but surely, more and more updates are making their way to the website. This is a lot of work! Fabric and Rick Rack have finally made their debut... I am starting out very, very slowly with the fabric portion of the business, and will probably be selective and offer fabrics that mainly feature the 1930's reproduction feedsack prints. It fits, though, don't you think? Offering a special niche of 1930's fabrics.... I like it.

It rains rick rack in my house, so it was only time until I would need to share my collection. There are only a few colors pictured on the site right now, but more, more, more will be up soon.

OH! and stay tuned, I'm going to talk about a fun Singer Attachment pretty soon. If you'd like a sneak peak, check it out here.

Now that I'm all computer-techied out, I think I'll go do the old-fashioned thing and make some more bread.

Picnic

2009-06-03T17:24:00.003-06:00

"Mama, can we push our little girls on the swings one last time before we leave?" I said yes and then when I looked up I quick-like grabbed the camera.

After preschool finished for the year, Karen and I promised the girls a little picnic in the park. Last week when I was digging through my fabric bins (because of this) I happened upon a print I had purchased weeks ago that I had totally forgotten about. It is by Painting Red Rhinos (PRR) and it is actually called 'Picnic'! I love it. Anyway, when I found it, I immediately remembered our picnic promise and thought the occasion called for matching dresses (again).

This time I included headbands and even little dresses for the little best friends.

Pattern is the Oliver + S Popover Dress from the Sew Hip magazine, Issue 6. I recently figured out a way to make the pattern reversible, too - two dresses in ONE and so simple, it's amazing.

Back to our Regularly Scheduled....

2009-06-01T11:14:00.005-06:00

.... Sewing.

Well, the S.W.A.P. sewing contest deadline was set for June 12th. If I were to dedicate every day to sewing, I could certainly accomplish the task. However, with all the other things I do in my life (the real time-thief is the website redesign, actually), I realized that it would not be possible for me to finish on time, so I withdrew my name from the runnings. Oh well.... I do plan on continuing with the 'P' (Plan) part of the acronym because I think it will really assist me when it comes time to working on SweetPea's uniform wardrobe for school this fall.

Anyway, so let's get back to the regularly scheduled program... er... uh, I mean sewing. When I finish the shipping of the weekend's orders, I have a SUPER fun project I'm going to work on for tomorrow. Stay tuned!

Oh, and I am just now realizing that Hubby left town before giving me instructions on how to grind the flour (with the Kitchen-Aid attachment) and we're down to the last mini loaf. I am sooooo hooked. Weekly bread-making is definitely in store - I love it and am looking forward to doing it again. Do you think I can make a tiny little loaf of bread last until Thursday?

The Best Whole Wheat Bread Recipe

2009-05-26T19:25:00.006-06:00

.... as in ~ moist, melt-in-your mouth, perfect, old-fashioned-flavor kind of bread... the one that calls for fresh ground whole wheat flour .... you know, the kind of bread that has all that healthy stuff - oh and the one that requires kneading. by hand. Yeah - thaaaaaaat recipe! But, believe me, it is so worth it!

(This recipe is being offered in reference to this post.)

Grandma Shirley's Homemade Bread
Yield: 6 large loaves (or about 10 mini loaves)

6 cups warm water
2 pkgs (or 2 TBsp) yeast
3 Tbsp salt
3/4 c. sugar
3/4 c. vegetable oil
2 eggs
1/2 c. powdered milk
1/3 c. instant potatoes
16 + cups of whole wheat, fresh ground flour
*1 1/4 cups gluten (trust me, this is necessary when using the freshly ground whole wheat flour)

*If you are just using regular white flour bought from the store, then the gluten is not necessary.

You will need a very large mixing bowl for this. (This recipe is too big for a Kitchen-Aid.) Mix warm water & yeast. Add salt, sugar, oil, eggs, powdered milk & potatoes. Mix in flour. Knead and let rise until double in size (about 2 hours). Push down and let rise again. (about an hour to an hour and a half). Make loaves and let rise again (about an hour). Bake at 350 degrees for 30-35 minutes (large loaves) and 15-20 minutes for mini-loaves. Remove from pans and butter loaves. Place on cooling rack. Once completely cooled, seal in freezer bags.

The following are my own personal reminders but I strongly recommend this site for even more in-depth tips - you'll need them, especially if this is your first time making bread:

Water - not too warm.
Mix all ingredients in LARGE mixing bowl and when dough is ready, set it aside and wash and dry bowl. Next, grease the bowl with Pam or oil. Put dough back in the bowl and cover with a tea towel. Place covered bowl in a barely warm oven. (I turn it on 200 for about 20 seconds and then turn it OFF.)
Adding flour: When dough is too thick to stir, mix or knead the remainder of flour in. You may need a bit more than recipe. You don't want the dough too sticky, but you don't want it too dry... just enough to be smooth to the touch, but tacky in texture.
KNEAD and knead some more... at least 20 minutes
Allow about 6 HOURS from start to finish.
I always have better luck with the smaller mini-loaf pans. They rise better, the size is just right and fun for the kids!

ENJOY your HEALTHY whole wheat bread!

Our Family's Daily Bread

2009-05-25T08:07:00.005-06:00

.... well, so it will be our daily bread.

Hubby's mom has been making homemade bread for over 20 years. She makes hers in the Kitchen-Aid and I have her recipe which I have made hundreds of times. In fact, I cried when I got my Kitchen-Aid for Christmas the second year Hubby and I were married because I was so happy - I wanted to make bread just like her (yes, my mother-in-law is more like a best friend to me - I realize how Blessed I am). Her little loaves are beautiful and so, so yummy! I did make bread for awhile... before our business, before computers, before children... you get the picture.

Another recipe for bread that I have is for a much, much larger batch. (There is a limit to those Kitchen-Aid bowls.) It came from Hubby's childhood friend's mother... we call her Grandma Shirley. While both recipes I have are 'potato' breads, and the ingredients are nearly identical, the flavor of the hand-worked bread is different. I don't know quite what it is, but I would venture to hope that heavenly bread would taste just like Grandma Shirley's bread.

Believe me, we are farrrrrrrrr from being on the 'crunchy' side, but we've been intrigued with the idea of grinding our own flour. However, bread made with all whole wheat flour is usually very, very heavy - too heavy and likened to a door stop. So, when Hubby's mom makes hers with whole wheat, it's just a mixture of regular white flour with a few cups of whole wheat added in... but for a true whole wheat bread, that mixture doesn't count.

Having already had the experience of baking bread gave me more confidence, but being clueless to gluten and wheat proteins and the actual science of bread-baking necessities left me intimidated. That is until yesterday when Hubby found these very, very helpful sites - here and here.

While Hubby would really like to figure out a smaller recipe so we could mix a batch more easily in the Kitchen-Aid, part of me really enjoys the process of mixing a large batch in my Great-Grandmother's antique Bauer bowl. The same one she used to make bread, the bowl I grew up with, too. My mom made biscuits, cinnamon rolls and caramel popcorn in the "big, yellow bowl".

The kneading (the workout!), the joy-filled satisfaction of doing something that has been done since the beginning of time. I never knew her, but my Great-Grandmother kneaded her bread in the air - I wish I could have seen that! I know she and my grandma and my mom are very proud of me knowing that their heritage continues.

Behold, our first batch of moist (I know, I was shocked, too! But, it really is super moist!!!), whole wheat and heavenly-tasting bread.

I need to check with Grandma Shirley first (yes, we love you too, Grandpa Art, and fully acknowledge your bread making skills - can you teach your pseudo-son to knead, please?), but I don't think she'll mind if I share the recipe and then with our addition of whole wheat. Be sure to check back!

Oh, I need to add that the bread-making process takes about 6 hours. I knew this. I again know this and might I suggest that starting bread at about 9pm isn't a good idea... that is unless you want a 3am snack of hot buttered bread.

Website Design & More News (literally)

2009-05-23T14:54:00.004-06:00

The website redesign is finally completed.

Sometimes my creative side gets bored with a name, look, logo, or idea and Wende Tindall Design helped me stay grounded while giving the site a fresh new look. I am more than pleased! Feel free to capture the button to the left to use on your blog or website. The web address to link to, of course, is www.april1930s.com.

There is still plenty to do now behind-the-scenes for technical application (coding can take hourrrrrssss!!!), but at least I get to enjoy new graphics in the process. Thanks, Wende!

Before I go work on more techy stuff of website quality control, I'll leave you with a link to some recent press April 1930's received in the Girlhood Home Companion Magazine. Bear in mind I was asked to write this article just before publication and am now grading it for the one-thousandth time with a red ink pen (and I'm using lots of ink).

Summer Snowballs

2009-05-17T22:23:00.004-06:00

The snowball bush we have in the back-side yard is one of my favorite old-fashioned blooms... along with the lilac trees, of course. After finishing these pair of pants SweetPea and I headed outside to do a quick photoshoot. Well, she clearly had fun with snowballs in the summer!

Tank top is new, too - made of cotton lycra jersey knit with picot-edged elastic for the neckline and underarms... Ottobre 04/2004 #33 size 110 with two inches added for length.

Oliver + S Sailboat Pants made out of Bamboo Twill. This is one of the oddest fabrics I've ever worked with. It felt like cardboard when wet and had a distinctive odor like when wool is wet. Out of the dryer it sounded like something to be stretched over a drum... so very odd, but so very, very soft (after it was dried). Irons similar to linen, but has more of a drape when worn. I really like it.

Light blue topstitching, vintage shell buttons - size 4 with three inches added to the length. (I spliced the pattern to properly add length.)

Mixing Business with Artistic & Practical Pleasure

2009-05-13T16:37:00.012-06:00

If I find something fun, unique and interesting, I enjoy sharing it with others. I'm that way about most things, actually. Quite honestly, that is how our business started. Finding the right vintage Singer Sewing Machine - the Featherweight, in particular, and the discovery of their accompanying attachments and learning how to use them applicably. That process of learning, led to collecting, which led to sharing, which led to demonstrating through photographs, which eventually led to an eBay business and then a bona fide website.

A demonstration sample is not totally applicable unless it is actually put to real-life use. I say that to myself. I can make sample strip after sample strip after sample strip, demonstrating the use of a particular attachment to be included with each purchase; however, that does not quite bring the same satisfaction as actually putting an attachment to my own artistic and practical use.

I am currently a contestant in a contest for a S.W.A.P. That's Sewing With A Plan. I had heard the term before on various other blogs, but wasn't quite familiar with the entire process until recently. I need to make 12 garments that all coordinate - tops, pants/capris, skirts, dresses, a jacket, etc... the contest ends mid-June. I still have a long way to go, but I recently finished a little blouse. The pattern I used provided opportunity for three different Singer Attachments. This brought me great pleasure!

(Click this photo for close-up view)

The first one was the Tucker Attachment. (It is one of my favorites because I have such a fondness for pintucks.) I needed to do 24 pintucks for the blouse and I enjoyed every single one. I discovered a hint a few years ago deep in the Machine Sewing Book (published by the Singer Sewing Machine Company) that the artistry is in the tuck, not the stitch... you don't really want your stitches to be seen. To do this, you need to set your stitch length to 15-20 stitches per inch so that they blend within the weave of the fabric. Having learned this, I have become very particular to see ready-to-wear store-bought garments stitched otherwise. I know, I know - occupational hazard to become stitch-picky.

(Click these two photos for close-up views)

~~~~~~~

The second Fashion Aid I used, which is probably my most-used Singer Attachment, was the Singer Buttonholer - the all-metal black one from 1948 - a Singer engineering marvel even today. Did you know that the Buttonholer was the most expensive attachment back in its day? Most all other attachments cost pennies on the dollar, but the Singer Buttonholer was priced at $9.95 - that translates to about $125.00 today. Try to imagine, if you will, how excited all the home sewers were to be able to make a consistent professional-looking buttonhole, without having to do a single stitch by hand. It was an amazing invention and the high cost was worth every ~~penny~~ dollar! That old invention is still arguably the best buttonhole maker compared to machine built-in features....... For SweetPea's blouse, I matched the little vintage buttons to the right cam size of 3/8 inch and as you can see each buttonhole turned out beautifully.

(Click this photo for close-up view)

~~~~~~~

The last attachment brought me the most satisfaction for this creation because it was the first time I have actually had the opportunity to put a Narrow Rolled Hemmer to practical use and not just do a stitch sample. My daughter is a tad long-waisted and the pattern failed to compensate, so I needed to maximize the hem without detracting from the overall old-fashioned feminine appearance. Fabric was a Lawn (no doubt that made the process a little bit easier) and I was so excited at the perfect 1/8 inch narrow hem result.

(click these two photos for close-up view)

So, while I achieved a real-life example of Singer Attachments for our business, I also had the pleasure of applying something artistic and practical for my daughter's blouse.

Won't you pop over for a Popover?

2009-05-03T14:13:00.004-06:00

When I saw that the Popover Sundress pattern was featured in the Sew Hip magazine, I decided I had to splurge to get the single issue from the UK (May 2009, Issue 6). I am extremely glad that I did. Not only is it one of the best sewing magazines I've seen, but this pattern is incredibly easy. I recommend it to all new seamstresses - seriously. It is so, so, so, so, so simple! There are only three pattern pieces, and the construction is one of the fastest on record. OH! and you get sizes 2-8 all in one pattern - isn't that great!

There are a few more samples on the Oliver + S Flickr group - one where she even added lace instead of rick rack which is so soft and feminine... I could make a dozen of these this summer - especially for our blazing hot weather.

A couple things I did was to add rick rack (like the original sample), except I basted my rick rack about 1/4 in from the edge of the fabric so that the maximum amount of swell would show (same for the hem). I also fully lined the dress with pima cotton so it would be super soft. The last touch I added was french seams. I couldn't take a photograph because SweetPea dodged back into the house before I remembered (and now it's raining), but here is a tutorial from Sew, Mama, Sew!

Rick Rack is sandwiched between the lining and the outer fabric.

Roses are Blue

2009-04-29T21:54:00.004-06:00

This is really my first time working with rib knit. It's a little bit more fluid-like and can stretch beyond necessary if one isn't careful. I adjusted my serger's differential feed to help and I also used a Walking Foot for the top stitching. The Walking Foot made a world of difference - WOW!

I think lettuce-edging is sweet and feminine... and one advantage to rib knit is that it ends up more ruffly than other knits using the same technique - perfect for finishing little jammies like these. I set my serger to a rolled hem and following the steps in my instruction manual, I achieved a frilly edge. I believe the knit is a Baby Lulu print and I totally love it. Would you believe I eeked this outfit out within one yard! it was nip and tuck, but I *barely* got it. I think it helped that this particular Ottobre pattern runs slim. Pattern was from the 04/04 issue - both the top and pants in a size 110 (5-6).

The smile that says, "can I wear these to pre-school tomorrow?"

Peas & Carrots Before Bed

2009-04-26T13:37:00.007-06:00

I was so excited when I bought this peas and carrots fabric from this shop, and was so glad when I combined it with the green dot I bought awhile ago from this one.

I thought I would sew the Playdate Dress that I've been putting off for way too long. A friend reminded me that sewing with white would either require a lining or a slip - I opted for a lining. Using white Kona I basted all the pieces prior to construction.

I must say, the yoke collar area should be cut with precision and effort & time focused on its construction... it took me over an hour to just baste the bias and pin the bibbed-yoke in position (I had a bazillion pins around that yoke!) - then I could stitch the yoke in place. But, you know me - I love details! (Tip: I pinned starting from the center front working towards center back and instead of working around I came back to center front and pinned towards the center back going the other direction) I think it was well worth it because I am quite pleased with the end result. So sweet, feminine, and unique! The only thing I might alter a little bit for next time is to use narrower bias for the yoke - it tends to flip up at the center front.

Little yellow shank buttons are vintage (of course!)

What I did not plan for, however, was that the dress would end up looking more like a hospital gown because of the fabric I chose. It totally bugged me to look at it. Here was this cute dress design, wonderful yoke, lovely stitching and yet the total look was just "off".

I took a break and drove out to Grandmom's for Rhubarb Pie. On the way out there I thought the 'dress' could be remedied into a nightshirt with capri jammie pants.

Three-quarter length tucked sleeves. I love that her fingers still show a little bit of pudginess.

Three hours later after two pieces of pie, ice cream and coffee, I had the vision to remedy my fabric choice... use the leftover yellow bias for the hem (after shortening the dress a tad, but not so much that the pockets had to go away), use green polka dots for the accent on the hem of the pants and yellow polka dots again for the waistband.

I now think it is the cutest little pyjama outfit - now to just serve up some peas and carrots before bed time and ponder more fabrics so I can actually make the DRESS! (or a blouse! Can't you imagine forgoing the pockets and making this into a little top? SO CUTE!)

When Vintage & Contemporary Collide

2009-04-23T21:18:00.003-06:00

It was about a year ago that a friend alerted me to this super neat new contemporary pattern company that marketed with paper dolls. I was head-over-heels from the first click. That coincidental link led to this, this, this, this and this, oh and this and will probably be a forever bond. Some have often wondered if I get paid to advertise for Oliver + S... not a dime, it's just a pattern company that I really like and enjoy sewing with.

Coincidentally, another friend alerted me to a unique vintage Singer collectible commonly used back in the day for cutting out Paper Dolls. This is what happened when the two genres met. Be sure to click on the images for close-ups!

A Vintage Singer Paper Doll Cutter with Contemporary Paper Dolls

This was the first little machine I had which a friend snapped up before I could say "Vintage Singer Paper Doll Cutter For Sale".

Alas, I found another one!

From about the 1950's to 1960's this little plastic hand-crank can come alive for pretend play again!

Notice any resemblance to this real sewing machine?

This is a Singer 500 Rocketeer Slant-O-Matic Sewing Machine - an amazing vintage machine that will sew about anything (still quite desirable and sought after today, actually)

This particular toy is available right now on my eBay page to the highest bidder.

Clam Diggers Without the Clams

2009-04-21T18:57:00.005-06:00

Sewing for boys, older boys especially, can sometimes be sacrificial to a mama who enjoys pretty printed fabrics, novelty prints and girly designs. However, with the linen I scored at a local JoAnn's remnant bin, I may have found a silver lining to sewing for my little young man. Linen has such a timeless feel to it - a bit more of an open weave as compared to traditional cotton wovens, but still quite soft (after it had been laundered in hot water and machine-dried twice to maximize shrinkage). I decided to use an Ottobre pattern I have used before ~ 02/2005 size 128 (approx. 8-9)

Cowboy was so excited to get these short pants/long shorts ("clam diggers") but balled his eyes out when I told him I wanted pictures. Stinker. I pleaded and he relented. However, when we got outside, one would never know he disapproved 5 minutes prior because he quite enjoyed being centered in the camera. Such a silly kid.

I made him tuck his shirt in so the pant details could be photographed, but otherwise he would most likely wear the shirt out.

In case you were wondering, the nearest clam digging would be about 600 miles west.

A Calgon Moment

2009-04-17T15:45:00.002-06:00

Remember the old commercial adage, "Calgon, take me awaaaaay"... well, at the completion of getting this set put together as a gift for a friend's 11-year-old daughter it made me think of that old expression. It's hard to believe that I've known Minnieme since she was only 2-years-old. Where have the last nine years gone?!? In another nine years, she will be 20 - AAAAaaack!

Anyway, this is for her birthday.

Top: Ottobre 04/04, #36 size 140 (approx. size 12)
Leggings: Ottobre 04/04, #38 size 140
Eyemask: A self-draft from Karen
Basket: A variation of this one. (I used a 15 inch square and cut 5 inch corners rather than 3 1/2 so it would stand deeper.) Everything is knit, including the basket, but I added enough interfacing for stability.

Sleeve hem, neckline and leggings hem are all trimmed in pink picot-edged elastic. It makes for a soft, feminine touch and super easy to do.

Easter (Part 2)

2009-04-14T09:45:00.000-06:00

~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

Easter Sunday was a beautiful day in more ways than one... the sunshine, the warmer weather, the church service, getting together with family, the dinner.... everything was just beautiful. It will go down in my memory as one of the best.

~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

This year's Easter Dress was special. I attempted and accomplished some new sewing hurdles and with some of my most treasured fabric finds.

We'll start with the slip. Vintage pattern, of course, but I melded view 1 with view 3. Unfortunately with vintage patterns, some of the techniques for construction either lack good illustrations or do not necessarily use the best methods, so I wasn't very impressed with the collar, placket and arm details. Alas, it turned out well in the skirt, and that was what was most important - a girl must have maximum puff in the skirt.

Thankfully, I brought my camera to the Easter Egg coloring and one of the Auntie's took photos and snapped this one of me stitching away on the hem of the slip. Again, blind hemming by hand on sheer fabric for what seemed liked miles!

Yes, there is a seam down the center front because I forgot to cut the piece on the fold. I had used my best pima cotton for the slip for the softest touch against SweetPea's skin and didn't want to waste any so I just stitched the two pieces together - after all, it wouldn't be seen anyway.

I used my vintage Singer Ruffler Attachment for the crinolin (which I found last summer at the annual Antique Festival) - that was a lot of gathering and using the Ruffler made it a 1000 times easier. The gathers turned out beautifully. For the lower part of the hem I adjusted the attachment for plaiting.

As you know, this year's dress has been on my mind for awhile. I decided on a variation between view 1 and view 2.

I adore her sweet teasing expression in this photo.

The slip swished when she walked. She loved it. I adored it.

I was very pleased with how the back turned out, too... especially the big bow!

The pattern called for just a narrow hem on the tie sides and ends - I didn't like the idea for that particular look, so I doubled the pattern cutting and stitched two pieces for each tie together then turned each one right side out. A much cleaner look, don't you think?

The collar and sleeves were a bit tricky. I spent two hours on the collar alone because the organdy flocked dotted fabric was difficult to work with and I wanted it to be perfectly symmetrical with no puckering. Initially I didn't have the extra trim between the two sleeve fabrics, but decided it was necessary for symmetry. I also added some crinolin on the underside of the top part of the sleeve, so that each one would puff upward. The hem of each sleeve needed to be hand stitched under - I had to be extra careful blind stitching with sheer fabric.

Hubby bought me a corsage and had Cowboy in tow, so they conspired to have "Brother" get SweetPea her first corsage - one for her little wrist. She was very proud!

It was a bit breezy around that tree, so it's hard to tell, but both sleeves were equally puffy and the skirt poofed out just like the olden days.

Easter Sewing ~ Break

2009-04-11T14:38:00.006-06:00

As I anticipated the arrival of family with nieces and nephew in tow, I decided to take a little break from my Easter Sewing for more Easter Sewing. The Zakka Sewing Book provides excellent illustrations and instructions for constructing many wonderful crafts including this Easter Basket. While I decided to keep my construction mainstream and assembly-lined, you could easily get creative.

What's that you see in the basket? It's grass. Raise your hand if you dislike the plastic staticky grass. Me, too. In fact, dislike isn't quite the word I would choose for my annoyance with the traditional Easter Basket grass.

A friend made a casual suggestion a couple of years ago and this is the first year I made up my mind to actually do it. I don't know if I was more excited about the fun of sewing the baskets, or sitting in a chair methodically turning the crank of my Singer Hand Crank Pinker with scraps of fabric. I had such a sense of gratification to use pieces that would otherwise break my heart to throw away. Honestly, there were not enough scraps to really warrant the effort or worth of saving them - not even for a quilt, so to find a use tickled me pink.

One of the little guys even found some eggs to hide in his claimed basket.

A Fabulous Fabric Company

2009-04-08T17:07:00.005-06:00

Hi all! Just wanted to give a quick shout out for Bunte Fabrics! Not only does Yvonne have some of the new limited Heather Ross 'Far Far Away' fabric line, but she's also hosting a give-a-way on her blog for some of her other luscious European fabrics.

And, her service is TOP NOTCH - I love buying from her!

fierte' de maman

2009-04-06T13:26:00.002-06:00

I love this.

It's Beginning to Come Together...

2009-04-02T23:22:00.003-06:00

You all know I'm having Easter Dress Contemplation. Well, I've narrowed the dress pattern (and the petticoat pattern, too, but forgot to scan that one) to a melded variation of View 1 and View 2 from this vintage Simplicity.

Dress - Flocked Green Floral
Accents - Organdy Flock Dot
Petticoat - Organdy Flock Dot with the Crinolin

I spent two hours on the collar alone tonight - organdy does not want to maneuver very well around curves, even as a bias. Let's hope the rest of my shady vision for a final outcome turns out well enough.

Going back to the thread & needle... will let you know when I come up for air.

Oma's Breakfast Muffins

2009-04-02T13:29:00.005-06:00

I realized the other day that this recipe was not posted (gasp!)... it is one of my all-time favorites! I will make these muffins till the day I die.

Oma's Breakfast Muffins

Yield: 36 muffins (approx)
It took me 2 hours to figure this out, but the Weight Watcher points are as follows ~ 5 points for one muffin if made with oil and 3 points for one muffin if substituted with applesauce

2 cups Quick Oats
2 cups Shredded Wheat cereal
2 cups All-Bran cereal
1 cup Boiling Water
1 cup Oil (Applesauce can be substituted for heart-healthiness)
2 1/4 cups Brown Sugar (packed)
1 Quart Buttermilk
4 Eggs
5 teaspoons baking soda
1 Tablespoon salt
5 cups Flour

Combine three cereals. Add boiling water. Stir in oil and sugar. Add remaining ingredients in order listed. Fill muffin tin 2/3 to 3/4 full. Bake for 15-20 minutes at 400 degrees. Can add raisins, nuts or mashed bananas. Refrigerate. Can be kept up to 2 months.

You do not have to make the muffins all at once - I make the batch and then refrigerate it. We make about 6 in the morning for our family. The remaining batch will last a couple weeks (sometimes less!) I've also made these all at once for our ladies Bible study group at church.

This is actually a double batch because we couldn't remember how many cups were in a quart. When we finally realized it was 4 (and not 8) - we needed to double the recipe. Ordinarily I mix it up in the Kitchen-Aid, but it won't hold a double batch... only my Great-Grandmother's Bauer Bowl will hold that much.

Spring - Fall - Spring - Fall, which is it?

2009-03-29T19:29:00.008-06:00

The new patterns have arrived to the shoppe... that means I simply must sample them! Of course, we got a thin, little, long-bodied SweetPea so I had to alter the sizing a bit to accommodate her figure, but nonetheless, I am quite pleased.

The top is from the Oliver + S Sailboat Pattern and the pants are from the Sandbox Pants Pattern. Fabric is from an imported Cosmotex featuring Little Red Riding Hood. Rick Rack is from the 1920's and I used my Style-O-Matic to apply it - although the application is done from the right side, the needle actually catches the rick rack on the bottom while simultaneously stitching it to the garment. This makes for a 'blind' trimming or a floating effect.

The month of March decided to come in like a lamb and go out like a lion this year, so it still feels like Fall around here! SweetPea will get plenty of wear in the pants for next season, too, because they tend to run a bit big. I made the size 5 all the way around, which I cuffed so she could appropriately wear them now.

She seriously loves to pose... more like, overpose, so I always have to keep it under wraps when she's modeling.

We're also working on the smile. Currently, we're getting the cheezzz-smile, so I'm trying to teach her that if she laughs her real smile will come out. This made her giggle with her wrinkled nose.

You can't see it, but each pocket is internally lined with the little-red-riding-hood fabric.

She wanted to make a funny face, but it actually reminded me of a Shirley Temple face with those curls. I couldn't resist.

Tucking the shirt in reveals the waistband coordinate. Otherwise, the pants can be worn without being limited to colors and prints.

Yes, it's totally bugging me that I wasn't paying attention to the direction of the print when applying the waistband. I wouldn't otherwise point out flaws (a faux pas, yes?), but I can't let y'all think I sew perfectly, because I make silly mistakes, too.

Vintage buttons coordinate with the buttons on the pants. I just love vintage buttons. I followed the stitching line from the facing to apply the rick rack.

We had to finish up the photoshoot with her "Tea Party" pose. Now just imagine a 5-year-old rendition of an English accent and you'll have it just about right.

Easter Dress Contemplation

2009-03-26T15:30:00.005-06:00

**Update** Photos Added

I like challenges. A new pattern, a new luscious fabric, uncharted territory ~ it's exhilarating for me. Don't ask me why - maybe it's to prove something to myself... that I can master it - but not just master it to completion, but master it with explicit detail in the finishwork. I don't mind doing a bit of hand-sewing if it makes the garment look more finished.

All that to say, sizing has me perplexed. I've long since known that my children are little skinnies, but now that they are growing, I'm approaching shapes and curves that make sticking to a particular size and adding length a little more perplexed.

This year's Easter dress is case-in-point. A couple of years ago I purchased some yardage of vintage fabric (feels a bit like lawn) that was from an *original* old Singer Sewing Center. It is a muted minty green with super tiny little puffs of flocked fruit throughout - think oversized dotted swiss with shapes. It had the original Singer counter label on it with the measurement of '4 yards'. This was a diamond in the ruff for me as most of you might imagine.

I'm thinking I might be able to coordinate with the Dotted Swiss - what do you think? I'm totally open to suggestions and ideas on this.

Anyway, I have in my mind's eye a vintage pattern with the classic full skirt. I even bought some vintage pink crinolin (sp?) at an antique show last summer that would be a great underslip to make the skirt poof out even more. Are you visualizing yet?

My dilemma is sizing. Karen gave me some patterns to ponder but their sizes are '6' - SweetPea is a size '4' width with about a size 6 length. Although, I'm sure she would need even longer than the pattern's size 6 because vintage patterns have a tendency to run short anyway. Well, save for the extra hem allowance - so I might be okay there (thinking out loud). Lengthening a pattern is relatively easy because you just typically splice in the middle and add length. But the width is unchartered territory and I'm nervous. I'm debating whether to go for the challenge and open up my vintage books where I know I've seen ways of altering patterns for different body shapes (but the fear of having a botched dress out of prime fabric puts me in panic-mode), or forgo another Easter year of using this fabric and pick something else to make which will confidently come together smoothly and nicely.

Yes, yes - I know I can make a muslin first. I've told countless other people to do it when in similar situations, but the time.... well, not-so-much the time, but the alternative is how many other garments of luscious fabric could I make in the meantime.

I do have some lovely fabrics coming my way from Bessiemary.com - I can't wait to see them even though there aren't many prints. I went plain jane and ordered some high-end solids for blouses and such that pintucks and sewing decoratives could be added and embellished to.

Speaking of embellishments (and going back to the Easter dress contemplation), I made some faggoting awhile back for just the purpose of using with this special old Singer fabric. So, if I decide to go with using the old Singer fabric I would also have the enjoyment of embellishing with something really unique, too.

Oh, dilemmas, dilemmas... this is one serious contemplation. No, I don't think this deep for everything I make, but almost.

Better go finish supper - pork chops and gravy are in the crockpot and mmmm-hmmmm, it smells so good!

Old-Fashioned Sewing Techniques Had a Purpose

2009-03-11T09:48:00.003-06:00

When I took sewing lessons several years ago, my teacher was especially excellent at showing me little tiny details that make for a more finished / professional look of a garment. One thing she taught me that I haven't really used (or thought I needed to use) until recently was the trimming of the inside seams when using a facing. At the time, I didn't really understand the reasoning, but with all the Oliver + S patterns I've sewn recently, this little trick has come in quite handy. The only time I've ever seen this technique illustrated was in the old sewing books.

When turning a facing seam, especially around collars, necklines, underarm sleeves and even hems, it is always necessary to trim the seams on the inside before turning. First trim both seam edges to 1/4 inch, then trim the FACING to 1/8 inch giving it a layered look. If the seam is especially curvy, I still clip the curves. When you turn it right side out, the facing (inside piece) will turn itself just ever-so-slightly more to the inside so that it isn't really seen from the outside. If your facing piece also includes interfacing - then you will triple-layer the trimming, cutting one just inside the other.

I'm just so prouuuuud!!!

2009-03-06T11:45:00.002-07:00

I got these photos e-mailed to me this morning. I seriously could have squeezed my little nephew SweetBoy right through the monitor!

This was my sister's very first pattern sewing project ever. The Oliver + S Bedtime Story Pajamas, but she fully lined them in snuggly warm flannel for those cooler camping nights.

Didn't she do a fabulous job!?! Meticulous and detailed - they are just as perfect up close as they appear in these photos!

Sis, I cannot express to you enough how much I love these jammies and how proud I am of you. I'm SEW!!!! excited that you have caught the love of sewing, too. E-mail me photos again soon - I can't wait to see what else you have under your needle!

Just a Sweet Promotion

2009-03-03T11:34:00.002-07:00

A couple weeks ago I e-mailed this company at the referral of this company. (Such a network we sewers and crafters are, don't you think?) Not only did the owner of Bessie Mary respond with sweet e-mail correspondence, but she personalized everything for me. I told her I needed some good quality cottons to begin my plan for making SweetPea's school unforms next year. How else am I to have my creative sewing outlet with femininity of plain, solid colors? Welllllll, with pintucks and uniqueness of high quality cottons, of course! (I discovered it was rather difficult to do this with this blouse - Kona cottons just don't quite cut it for what I want to be able to do.)

Look what surprised my mailbox the other day! Can you believe the detail, time and consideration she put into this? Pinking all the swatches, labeling them - ultimately extending her shop for my own personal in-home shopping experience - I LOVE THIS! I feel spoiled with all the little florals - temptress that she was, she had to have known that I would have to order some of those first. I'll put off the solids for another day - I simply must get my tactile fingers on those little posies! Anyway, quilter's cottons are superb, do not get me wrong - I thoroughly enjoy using them and will continue to use them, but the quality and fine-weave of these is unlike anything else.

Take a gander at the Florals, the Lawns, ohhhhh, the Lawns!

I know, I know - you all probably knew about these fabrics, but I've known in my heart what I've felt before and earnestly looked for, I just didn't know where to go look for them or even how to describe them. And, let's face it, an online experience can be daunting... which is why I am giving Bessie Mary a sweet promotion so that you can be assured of 100% service and 100% quality.

I entered a contest - a fabric drawing!!!

2009-01-04T00:23:00.003-07:00

If you want to see some lovely talent for Christmas sewing . . .

. . . click here! You can vote in the comments section.

Of course, you'll all recognize which one is SweetPea. I made her Christmas dress with wool gabardine (ordered from B & J Fabrics in New York), fully lined it because I didn't want the wool to be scratchy to her skin... inserted an invisible zipper and trimmed the hem and sleeve hem with red pompom trim.

The real joy... er.... uh... challenge, rather, was the ivory soutache braid I applied to each piece prior to sewing it together. I had to free-hand the loopdy loops and then use my Singer Underbraider Attachment to follow the pattern from the backside.... all the while the soutache being sewn to the front side.

The Hanna Andersson dress was my inspiration but they only offered it in black and I wanted RED - so I decided to make my own. The pattern I used was from the Finnish pattern company ~ Ottobre 04/04

Anyway.... vote for what dress you like, but I won't mind if you vote for SweetPea's dress, of course. hehe!

For more dress details ~ click here.

What Would You Do For A Klondike Bar?

2008-12-08T22:50:00.003-07:00

The Klondike Bar Dresses... x 2 ? ... no....

x 3 !!!

Front Yoke is a Japanese Imported fabric. Snowflake Corduroy is a Painting Red Rhinos and the Polka Dot is from Moda, I believe. Pattern is the Oliver + S Tea Party Dress and the Turtleneck is from a Vintage KwikSew Pattern I've had for awhile - made from a basic white interlock knit. Bloomers (not shown) are made with the corduroy print and are slightly modified from the Oliver + S Puppet Show Pattern.

I just happened to have some vintage blue rick rack that matched perfectly. I did wash in hot and dry (using a laundry bag to protect the rick rack from getting all tangled, of course).

Two of the dresses have matching clear vintage buttons - don't they look like little round pieces of ice? Perfect for this print!

SweetPea's dress were embellished with some matching blue vintage buttons - they reminded me of snowflakes.

Just the sweetest and cutest little girls!

For the Rest of the Story . . . (click here)

Oliver + S Pleated Skirt (2+2)

2008-11-13T13:07:00.003-07:00

Dressed for fall... in her new brown corduroy skirt.

An Oliver + S pattern . . . from the 2+2 set.

Oliver + S plackets are designed with ease - I look forward to Liesl's plackets every time.

Button is a vintage bakelite button I found last February in Seattle.

Blind hem. The skirt ordinarily calls for wider hem allowance, but I narrowed it because SweetPea is tall. Plus, now she can wear it perhaps even next fall (I hope!).

Isn't the button pretty!? I bought a set of these still on the original card.

Usually I serge my inside seams to make them look more finished and more professional. However, at a local bazaar I was demonstrating the use of the Adjustable ZigZag Attachment on my Singer Featherweight. It worked beautifully and quite easily, too! The attachment moves the fabric back and forth (whereas zigzag machines move the needle).

I placed a teeny tiney button on the inside front and center so SweetPea would know where to line up her skirt pleats so they look just right.

Lastly, she recently discovered a raincoat in the back of her closet. I had purchased it for her when she was about 8 months old. It's vintage and a size 7. Today was raining outside and she was prompted to look in her closet and get a coat on before going on Thelma-Thursday. She came out with this raincoat. I didn't expect it to fit her just yet - at least a few years away, but aside from the sleeve length, I think she looks pretty darn cute in it! I'm so glad I bought it and saved it all this time.

By the way, if you're contemplating on buying a leaf-falling tree to plant - stear clear of the Sycamore. I know it's a Biblical tree and all with Zaccheus, but the leaves take FOR.EVER. to drop and we are picking up leaves clear into January and sometimes February. I kid you not. Go with the maple!

PINK BLOUSE ~ Made from Vintage Pattern

2008-11-05T18:15:00.003-07:00

Pintucks, Rick Rack, Baby-Snap Cuffs, Vintage Pink Buttons, Peter Pan Collar ~ What's not to love?

The Blouse is a Vintage Simplicity Pattern from the 1940's. It called for pressed pleats held in by the top yoke and bottom seam... Yeah, right - like that would survive washings - so I used my vintage Singer Pintuck Attachment and set the pleats/tucks permanently. In the old Singer Sewing Books it says to set the stitch length to 15-20 (I prefer closer to 20) so that the stitch blends in with the fabric and doesn't show.

I really did iron this... but after a day's play, it wears like she loves it, I suppose. :)
Pink Rick Rack - vintage, of course.

Little Tiny Baby Snaps - aren't they just the cutest!?! I love 'em!

My good friend, jk, showed me how to make a blind hem even more 'blind'... Also, in order to preserve as much length as possible I needed to use a facing to finish the hem (even though I had already added an additional inch to the pattern, the length still has no room to spare). Remembering the construction of hem facing in the Oliver + S Puppet Show Dress - I followed the same exact method. It turned out perfect!

Skirt is an Oliver + S Swingset Skirt made with the same pink fabric as the blouse (Kona cotton) but with the outer panels being of vintage pink dotted swiss. This skirt pattern is so much fun - and super easy. Technically, the skirt could be made reversible because when I fold under the outer skirt panel hem, I encase the inner lining - stitched, they become one.

Such cute pinky-ness, don't ya think!?

My Little Snow White

2008-10-30T09:47:00.004-06:00

Let's just say that my little SweetPea loves to dress-up. Pretending has got to be one of her talents. The conversations she makes between her little dolls and bears and toys are just so darn cute.

Snow White has always been her favorite Disney Princess, and I don't really understand why because she hasn't seen the movie yet. At Disneyland, Snow White was the one she really wanted to see... and the Snow White ride - she would put her head down during the scary scenes (the entire ride), but sit up for all the 'happy parts' (only the beginning and the end).

She's had the cheapy dress-up Snow White likenesses from discount stores that resemble the character, but I sought to find a 'real' costume after our visit to Disneyland this summer. Well, I did... it was the Simplicity 5832 Disney Princess Pattern (out of print). First, I will tell you that there is a design flaw in the pattern itself and I didn't realize it until after the garment was made and had to make alterations... but the front piece and front lining as well as the piping piece, should have definitely had about 2 inches added to the slope of the front neckline - otherwise, it might scoop down to the navel.... Needless to say, I wasn't too happy with Simplicity about it. But, thankfully, I was able to alter the dress after it was sewn so that it would fit correctly. And, yes - I really did take the measurements prior to sewing and made the right size accordingly. Oh, well... all is well that ends well, right?

So.... back to my talented pretending child. I took her outside to take photos yesterday and she pretended she was 'in the woods like Snow White'... then she began to hold her dress and pose like Snow White.... then she told me.... "Mommy, take my picture while I hold my mouth open so it looks like I'm singing like Snow White."

The Pinker

2008-10-21T23:20:00.006-06:00

Ever heard of a SINGER Hand Operated Pinker or Pinking Machine before? Have you seen what this amazing tool can do?

Well.... I am about to show you one of my most used Sewing and Crafting accessories.

It is the SINGER Hand Crank Pinker or Pinking Machine. Originally from the 1930's it was produced by the Singer Manufacturing Company and sold in Singer Sewing Centers throughout the country. It was called a Fashion Aid because it was, after all, used in the sewing room as an aid to sewing for fashion... (i.e. seam finishing). The instruction manual, however, shows much more creativity and craftiness than just seam finishing - felt books, oil cloth table coverings, toys, and other decoratives can all benefit from the pretty edge the Singer Pinker can create. And, with the lovely scalloped edge (versus the sharp-angled edge of Pinking Shears) - it's inspiring all its own. I think it reminds me of rick rack... maybe that's why I love it so much.

I also use my Pinker to pink my expensive fabrics prior to laundering to minimize fraying.

Fabric on the top was pinked prior to laundering (as shown at the right of the blue fabric) and then what it looks like after laundering (left of the blue). The orange fabric was not pinked at all.... look how much more it frayed.

If you need to finish an edge close to the seam to minimize bulk, the Pinker is perfect for the task. Look what I did for the Round-Neck-Top for my daughter.

Anyway, because of the way the Singer Pinker was engineered, it is not based on the 'sharp'ness of the blade (the blade is actually quite dull to touch) that cuts but rather the pressure of the blade against a steel disk.

Increase the pressure of the disk onto the blade and it will go through thicker fabrics and even leather!

Scrapbookers - yes you, too, can use the Singer Pinker without the fear of the scissor-police coming after you for dulling the blade. I use my Pinker day in and day out - fabric, paper, paper, fabric - from one task to the next, it doesn't matter. It's just so sweet and feminine... even SweetPea and Cowboy enjoy a good crank on the Pinker now and then too.

Turning the crank is easy and FAST!!! And, with the cutting guide, it's easy to feed your fabric or paper through for a smooth, even cut. A C-Clamp is of necessity to securely fasten the Pinker to a table or other hard surface.

A few hints if you already own a Pinker:

Do not run pins through with the fabric - they will put a ding in the blade and dull it.
If the fabric isn't getting cut all the way through, increase the pressure of the disk underneath.
Keep the pinker properly oiled.
If you hear a clicking sound and the crank seems to 'slip', contact me or my husband.

Hubby has been working really hard over the last couple weeks to service, oil, test and sample some aesthetically less-than-perfect Pinkers for our Scratch-N-Dent Sale. If you'd like to get yours before they sell out - you can here! USA Shipping is Free!

Pinkers were originally sold with the wider scalloped blade, in an original box, with an original Singer (Simanco) c-clamp and original instruction manual. However, by special order direct from the company two specialty blades could be purchased separately - the straight-edged blade and / or the narrower scalloped blade. To find a complete set in pristine condition is quite rare.

Bloomer Inspiration

2008-10-17T14:36:00.002-06:00

My little SweetPea is growing up... and is learning the graces of a being a little lady. In order to protect her innocence and still provide a sweet sense of fashion in an old-fashioned way, I had been on the lookout for a 'bloomer' or 'pannie-cover' appropriate for her age of 4, going on 5.

When perusing one of my favorite blog reads and the history of the Pattern Company, I discovered this post and was instantly inspired.

Eliminate the pockets for the shorts on the Puppet Show Tunic/Dress Pattern and they are no longer 'shorts', but rather a darling and modest set of bloomers. I will make this pattern until my little girl is old enough to understand. She loves them and doesn't mind wearing them at all and notices the little details like the gather at the side. OH, how I love that she notices little details like that.

Her preschool teacher even thanked me the other day for having her wear them!
I want to make them in ever color! These were made with a creamy colored Kona Cotton.... super easy, by the way, and fast!

If you'd like to purchase the pattern, I have them in stock (will load to my website soon). E-mail me your size request and order now ~ shipping is free!

They're HERE! My Favorite Contemporary Children's Patterns

2008-09-24T15:49:00.007-06:00

The FALL/WINTER Oliver + S patterns have arrived! I'm so excited, too... I can't wait to see what you make from them! And the new sizes are wonderful ~ ranging from 6 months - 8 years.

Specially selected tissue - different than any other pattern I've used. It feels like a thin vellum - it's fabulous!

Level of difficulty indicated by '1, 2, 3 or 4 Scissors' . . . Priced at $15.95 each with Free Domestic Shipping if ordered from my website.

Each pattern comes wrapped in external cardstock for use as a Paper Doll Cut-Out! How precious is that!?!

If you've been following my blog lately, you have seen one or two or three of the Oliver + S creations I have made.

Let me know you're one of my readers and I'll include a yard of free vintage rick rack ~ all wrapped up pretty, of course!

4-year-old Seamstress

2008-09-23T13:23:00.013-06:00

Today marks a note in time; a note in history; a memory forever to be ingrained in my mind.

Last night before SweetPea went to sleep, she looked at me and asked, "Mama, can tomorrow be a special day for us?" I nodded my head and smiled - then kissed her goodnight, closed the door and decided many things would have to be postponed....

.....because tomorrow would be the day. The day that she would begin to learn.

"Mommeee ewing (OH-ing)?" This was a common question since she first could talk. I will never forget the time when she was 18 months old and I was sewing late, late at night - repairing something for Hubby's hunting trip, no less. Well, she must have heard the whir of the machine and came out in her little footy pajamas and asked, "Mommeee ewing?" (she couldn't say her S's)
I got her up on my lap and had her 'help' me. Hubby seeing the sweet moment caught this picture. I am so glad he did.

She's watched me sew and sew and sew these last few years.... she's seen many, many machines come and go from our business. But, despite all that - she has known that there is a specific machine saved special just for her (well, two of them actually - a Sewhandy and a Featherweight 221). When she was 2-years-old she'd drag grandma and grandpa and Great-Aunt Thelma into her room to show-n-tell her "lil tineee-ewing-sheen" (as she would call it) . She didn't seem to mind that she could only look at her tiny sewing machine at that age - knowing that someday it would be hers to learn to use.

Well. Today is the day. Part of my heart is sad - knowing that those 'lil tineee' days are gone, but the other part of my heart is smitten with joy and pride over her ability to grasp some of the new concepts. There was not one moment of frustration or impatience... it was a happy, happy time for her and me.

I asked SweetPea what she wanted to sew (thinking it would be something like a pillowcase, or blanket for dolly), but, no - she immediately, without a second thought, blurted out in excitement that she wanted to make something for "brother" (she calls him that) - a little vest for Sam Cobra of the Johnny West Action Figures.

What is a mother to do? Well, I let her at the fabric basket of large size scraps and she picked out the striped print. I quick-like drew a little pattern for a vest with the hopes it would be the right size and to give her a little flavor of the 'process' of sewing with a pattern.

And, I was so good to 'let her do it', too, without getting all worried about miscuts or anything - this was going to be HER project... She cut out the pattern piece, she pinned, she cut, she sewed, she even pressed her seams open!

These pictures will say it all.......

The Sewing Machine she is using is a 1950's Singer Sewhandy. We've had this one for several years now - Cowboy even learned on it. Generally, we sell about two per year and we are currently offering one on eBay if you're interested. (link)

I didn't say a word about the little threads stuck to her shirt - I thought that needed to be a part of the whole memory.

She must have some of her mama's sewing tendencies, though - look how even the stripes turned out. Yeah - really, truly... her project!

"Brother" comes home in an hour and a half - she is beside herself with excitement and anticipation. The last thing she said was " he will just love it and be so proud of me".

That makes me want to cry.

***UPDATE*** Big Brother was genuinely pleased and showed sweetness that made both Hubby and me proud. Of course, had had to get Sam Cobra fully dressed with his black hat and pistol in hand.

Paper Doll Matchy

2008-09-20T17:15:00.004-06:00

Paper dolls are so much fun. I like it that SweetPea thinks so, too. She begs me to cut out the paper dolls when the Oliver + S patterns arrive. Before I received the all-in-one paper doll cut-out sheet with all of them on one page, she would have to wait until I actually made the outfit.

She was ecstatic when I sat down with her and cut them all out so she could make conversation between "cousins" (as she so corrected me when I told her they were "friends" - the boy and girl)

Before she could play with them, though - I made her go outside and model the newest, latest outfit I had made for her... The Sunday Brunch Jacket & Skirt from Oliver + S. As you can tell, there isn't much of a problem to get her to pose for the camera - what a ham she can be. Jacket is a cotton tweed - soft to the touch and comfortable for her. The skirt is a Cotton Lawn with an underlining of Kona Cotton. To aid in coordination of the two I used the Lawn to bind the inside seams of the jacket - for a more finished effect. (see below)

Matching cloth-covered buttons were a fun thing to try this time.

Skirt has pockets on both sides - SweetPea noticed that feature immediately.

Matching bound seams.

I initially thought the boots would look cute with the outfit, but quite frankly, they took away from it. So I have edited the photos to accommodate. Something to consider if you were thinking of boots, too.

Notice anything about the photo above right? Purely by accident, but I couldn't resist showing you... too cute!

She gave each one a voice and carried on conversations between the two. She even made them "walk".

The Oliver + S Sunday Brunch Jacket & Skirt Paper Doll

The perfect green.

2008-09-18T12:29:00.008-06:00

While I'm not completely a proponet of the Painted Featherweight, I will say that I completely support it if they are the right color. This, my friends, is the epitome of Jade-ite Green. I love it. A customer/Stitchery Friend e-mailed it to me as his new acquisition and I about fell out of my chair with jade-ite green envy.

Remember this post? Well, this is not mint green. This is JADE-ITE Green. You know the kind ~ Anchor Hocking Fire-King Restaurant Ware Jade-ite Green. There is the vintage original (what I just happen to have in my kitchen for everyday use)... then here is a pic of some reproduction that never made it to market, which shows it all so nicely.

Not that this post is anything about Restaurant Ware - it isn't... it's about the Jade-Ite Green Featherweight.... I totally love it. Thanks J.F. for letting me share about it here!

More Sewing Makeovers

2008-09-16T12:40:00.009-06:00

My sweet Sis came to help me paint last weekend... the dungeoness shelves which I had turned into my fabric / sewing area. I had taken a picture of the 'before' a month or so ago, but it must have been so atrocious for me to look at that I think I deleted it from the computer. Oh, well... trust me - these shelves have needed an updo since about the 1970's.

The fabric that is inside out has been washed and is now ready for pressing then sewing. The fabric that is right side out is still unwashed. I've just about made it through all of them.

FABRIC: Knits and extra wide yardages on the top shelf, florals on the 2nd shelf, polka dots and stripes on the 3rd shelf.

Locker baskets make the best catch-alls - at least to make the catch-alls look as neat and tidy as possible.

FABRIC: Solids & Imported Prints (i.e. Japanese) on one shelf, Novelty Prints on the next shelf

Absorbing a New Look

2008-09-16T10:35:00.006-06:00

For a long while I've been contemplating a new look for my entire business... logo, business cards, website, eBay template, blog, etc...

Well, because it will most likely be a fairly slow morphoses I am going to go ahead and debut the logo. I am delightfully pleased with my personal marketing designer. If you're interested in her services, contact me - she's brilliant with understanding what you want to express while catering to your personal requests - I love her!

Didn't she do a fabulous job! This captures everything about me... 'I am extremely pleased' is an understatement of the year.

She even helped me with the back of the card, too . . .

If you'd like to add a button to your blog or sidebar - you may do so by capturing this link. The button image size is over there to the left <---- just to give you an idea.

Anyway - be on the lookout for the new logo and the new and fun things April 1930's ~ A Sewing Shoppe will be offering!

She never ceases to delight my heart...

2008-09-15T13:04:00.005-06:00

This week is RED week at preschool. And what does my little SweetPea decide she needs to wear to coincide with the week?... none other than her Strawberry Shortcake outfit I made for her Strawberry Shortcake Birthday Party last January.

She opted out of the hat (which I probably would have talked her out of anyway).

It delighted my heart that she wanted to wear it - and not just wear it for play, but wear it for school!

I just love sewing

2008-09-07T17:01:00.005-06:00

I borrowed the nearest 2-year-old I could find to model this dress assuring me it would fit another little 2-year-old who was having a birthday party (the dress was a gift).

The flair on this dress is just adorable - I love the design!

Notice the little clown? He's wearing white with red polka dots, too!

Vintage Pink Buttons from my friend's little sewing studio were the PERFECT match to the rick rack.

The pattern called for bias piping, but I decided to use rick rack instead - fun touch, don't you think?

If you have not ever tried 'hem-facing' before, I highly recommend it. It makes the hem enjoyable to do without all the puckering and frustration -especially for a curved hemline. Need a tutorial? Try this . . .

A blind hem is also a nice feature for a boutique-ly made garment. My mama taught me to do a catch-stitch (below), but there are other ways, too. Here's another tutorial for that - super easy! I had to switch threads for each panel, though, because of how it could potentially show through to the front by using the same color of thread all the way around the hem.

I know, I know - you're probably wondering "why do you promote Oliver + S so much?" Well, in all honesty, while it might come across as promotion - it has become more of a passion for the quality of the patterns. And, I learn something new with each one. I love that part - the learning of a fun, new way to sew precisely. I suppose the passion goes back even father though - it really was love at first 'site'.

A customer e-mailed me and asked if I had ever heard of Oliver + S before and sent me a link. I think I gasped with that twitterpated love for something so incredibly 'me'... from the first page of the website! The paper dolls immediately drew me in - the clicking on each one to transform the doll into a new outfit... the vintage-y ness with a contemporary flair.

I'm only 6 hours from Portland, and if it hadn't already been planned for our vacation then followed up with an Antique Show trip to Portland in July - I would have SO been to the Quilt Show back in May where Oliver + S made their debut.

My customer-friend has been gone all summer, she probably has no idea what she introduced me to! haha!

By the way - I have now ordered the patterns and they will be available for purchase soon.

Fabric ~ An Artful Medium

2008-08-28T10:57:00.007-06:00

Yes. I am an artist. Well, I used to be - I did pen & ink drawings... some of them were amazing and I'm not too shy to say so here. It has been 10 years since I picked up a pen & ink pen, however. Sometimes, I wish I had the desire to draw again... especially to illustrate my children, but thankfully I've taken enough photos so that when their little-ness is gone, I will be able to still capture it in artform. That medium is on the back burner - for now.

Nonetheless, God has made me realize another artistic talent and I am really beginning to ponder on it more and more. Garments or sewn creations (i.e. quilts, crafts, etc...) are my canvas and fabric is my medium. I've always loved colors. Even in the art stores I would look at all the colors of paint (even though I can paint, I didn't really ever use paint as a medium) and admire them, read their color names and be fascinated by the different hues, tints and shades. Even as a child, I can remember being fascinated by the color crayon "color names" like 'Burnt Sienna' or 'Red-Orange' (didn't like) versus 'Orange-Red' (liked better); and then Green-Blue (didn't like) versus Blue-Green (liked)- my favorites, though, were 'Carnation Pink' and 'Sky Blue'. Heaven on earth for me was a box of 64 Crayola color crayons. Sometimes I would even color from the wrong end of the crayon, so that the tops would stay all pretty and nice.

Admittedly, I still look at fabrics and notions and define them with color-names, too... and love it when I can make a perfect match with a button or rick rack trim. I've been told that the average person retains the same color in their memory for 20 minutes. Mixing colors has always been a fun challenge for me, too.... I can usually tell what the underlying colors are/were used to make up a color; whether its warm or cool toned, or whether it's tinted or hued.

Having this fascination with color has transferred its artistic form into my world of sewing. Well... and among other things of my personality, I enjoy having all color choices before me so that I can pick. the. very. best. one. (but still have enough for another project - just in case I might need that exact shade of color for another choice later)

Colors make me happy. I like them. Is it weird to look at fabrics really, really close to see the fibers and how they printed all those colors so perfectly, so beautifully? I would thoroughly enjoy going to a fabric mill. I am a bit anal about color, I'll admit. I like things to coordinate. I can appreciate those who are gifted to be more eclectic in style, but I tend to go the more refined way of matching things... although, I can be swayed (sometimes).

I really have no idea why I posted all of this. I suppose to make the point that I like fabric. I like colors. And, I like the colors of the fabric prints, patterns, and the like that comprise the artful way of putting it all together.

An early 1900's Printing Room of a Cotton Mill . . . I would totally love to visit this place!

Oliver + S Puppet Show Dress

2008-08-24T19:28:00.012-06:00

Have any of you heard of a "Deltor" before? Well, back in 1920 it was the name for the first pattern instruction sheet for 'home-sewists' (versus the tailors and professional sewists) which was included in the mass-marketed dress patterns. It was revolutionary to the pattern industry and all the other major pattern companies found ways to follow suit.

(Here's a great (long) article about it if you like history - especially sewing history.)

Anyway, my point is this: I think the Oliver + S patterns are the 'Deltor' of today. They are clear and concise, the presentation and marketing are brilliant, not to mention flawlessly beautiful - is it any wonder a unique and special boutique children's garment is the finished result? I think not. Even the designer's instructions have twists and turns at constructing the garment that allow for perfect seaming and 'pretty' sewing.

The Puppet Show Dress ~ made in a size 3-4 for width and size 5 for length (yes, my little one is tall and thin). It's still quite hot here and remains nicely warm through September and beginning of October (it was 100 degrees today). A short-sleeved school dress will get lots of wear. The fabric I chose lends itself to late summer/early fall with the color scheme . . . from American Jane Wee Play by Moda.

Tiny 3/8 inch vintage buttons were the perfect color of chrysanthemum red. Each button has tiny little milgrain beading along the circumference edge.

I want each and every pattern as if for a collection to be viewed in a curio cabinet.
I will be carrying her patterns on my website, so if you'd like one - let me know!

bons*bons for SweetPea

2008-02-01T11:47:00.000-07:00

My F.I.R.L. Karen made this for my daughter, SweetPea. Knowing the time, energy and especially the love that goes into sewing something special for someone, I felt totally blessed to have SweetPea be the recipient of such a heartfelt gift.

I definitely heart this... and, so does SweetPea - it is a royal meltdown if she cannot find the shirt that goes with the skirt and vice versa. C'mon - get with it and do the laundry, Mama!

Thank you, Karen ~ you are just so precious to me.

What? You want one of these little outfit treats for your girl, too? Oh! I'm SEW glad you asked! Click over here and scoop up one in your wee one's size! She'll custom order for you, too... even down to the coordinating buttons!

Christmas Jammie Time

2007-11-21T12:07:00.000-07:00

Click to see an 'all-over' fabric image.

Well, it's that time of year again... this is what I've picked out for 'entire family' matching jammies...

Patterns are still being decided over, but I knew I had to act fast if I wanted enough fabric for all of us. Let's just hope the company ships all the yardage I ordered rather than just send me what they think pleases them. I would really dislike coming up short.

Probably red piping for the girls and blue or green piping for the boys.

Ditty Bag Pattern

2007-06-01T10:18:00.001-06:00

This bag was made for Cowboy's teacher as a gift on the last day of school.

Download it HERE

I added one more step... I sewed the inside diagonal flaps together so as to make more definitive pockets. This is EASILY done on a free-arm machine.

Also... I made this bag 24" inch square - perfect purse/hand bag size.

Used bias tape (stitched together) as the ties.

New Sewing Class

2007-05-17T10:16:00.000-06:00

I started a new sewing class at a local quilt shop. It's called the 'Wash Tub Club' and it features all different little quick and easy projects using all of the repro 1930's feedsack prints.

" The Ditty Bag "

This was our first project. Made from two 18" squares and 2 yards of cording. SUPER simple and SUPER fun and we all finished our project AT the class - gotta love instant gratification! I was in fabric sewing heaven with all the 1930's prints I got to pick from - they are my absolute favorite!!!!!!